CHINA 2005: 12/29/2005. Back in the World of the “Connected” From Yongding to Xiamen

Our third day in the Yongding area was probably the most spectacular, so far, as we drove about two hours to reach one of the most incredible sites… a complex of Tulous (up until now we’ve only seen singular Tulous)… This was a set of four circular ones and one square.. sort of interlinked and on different levels.. It is about 400 years old and functioning today as it probably has for centuries.. This one, perhaps because of the scale, seemed more alive than any of the others we’ve seen — and housed people of all generations..

Population of about 500 or so (numbers are very hard to come by)… We saw grandparents taking care of babies and young children (always smoking as they held the babies); families, people working; construction projects, etc… oh and of course lots and lots and lots of chickens and fowl. The Chinese call this particular tolu…”Four plates, one soup”…  

The drive to this particular complex was even more “death-defying” than the other two days… Now we were on roads that had deep drops on both sides (one into a river; the other a steep ravine) — the road was wide enough for just one normal sized car, but it was two-way… as it wound up and down hills and valleys…Eventually we hit a problem as the road was flooded out.. and had to  back out, turn around, and back track to find another way to the village… which we did.. The road ends at the top of the hill and one must walk into the village..  We then traversed the internal walkways for about three hours.. It was quite a sight. 

Throughout, however, one continues to see the contradictions.. making mats from reeds and bamboo for use in traditional ways, working with antiquated tools and equipment, farming perhaps the way it’s been done for centuries.. and then alas the infamous “dish” to receive television reception…  As I think I mentioned in previous notes, the Chinese seem particularly addicted to television — and they get many soap opera style programs, including several from Korea.. Our guide was always catching glimpses of the TV whenever he could…

Can’t say we were sorry to leave the Zhongtian Hotel in Yongding after 3 nights (the one without any heat)…

Anyway, we drove into another village for lunch. in another one of these tiny roadside makeshift restaurants with about two tables.. and complex cooking arrangements with the sink outside and the stove inside and minimal prep area!.  lots of fatty pork, but a wider range of vegetables than in previous days… still no fruit.. I’m desperate for a banana.

Then it was a long drive (about four hours) back to Xiamen… where I sit at the moment, dreading the thought of unpacking and repacking.. and dealing with all of our clothes that are covered in mud splashes… It’s a very short stopover here in Xiamen.. really only to sleep so that we can catch the flight to Hong Kong early tomorrow.. Our wait list has cleared so we will be arriving in California on New Years Day at 8 a.m. Just realized it’s a holiday and not too many restaurants will be open.. but I’m certain Oakland’s Chinatown restaurants will be in full swing!  Imagine coming back to have Chinese food!  (We’re both actually dreaming of salad.)

Take care — Hope these ramblings have not been too boring..

Look forward to seeing all of you in person (promise we won’t bore you with slides unless you ask)..  Happy New Year…I’m headed to watch CNN — news junkie that I am, it’s been difficult to be so removed from world events.. I’m assuming nothing really major happened in the last few days.. but I’ll know soon enough.

Take care — Fern