Americans in Morocca — December 31, 2007 and January 1, 2008

Hi All –

We survived eating at the food stalls on Dec 30 at Place Jmaa el Fna (the main square in Marakech).. What a scene.. Cart after cart of food with tables and benches.. About 4 city blocks… cooking going on at about 60 different carts – kebobs, cous cous, tagines, sandwiches, soups, etc. no alcohol.. And surrounding this is a multitude of performers, magicians, musicians, snake charmers, and people hawking all sorts of gear.. The full square is about the size of four football fields..

We ate and then attempted to find our way back to the riad at about midnight… Well – we got totally lost as the usual markers (certain shops and souks) were closed and wound up miles away from where we needed to be. Eventually got a taxi to take us to the gate nearest our part of town.

On New Years Eve Day… we walked to the medersa through what seemed like thousands of souks.. We did a bit of shopping… learned that we cannot be Finns anymore, as we met shop keepers who knew almost as much Finnish as we do.. Seems as if several Morrocans are married to Finns! We’re thinking of becoming Polish next… but we don’t know a single word in Polish. At least in Finnish we could fake it for a few minutes of chatter.

We ended the year at Yacout in a bit of an over-the-top dinner. Arrived by taxi (since it’s at the other end of the medina and I don’t think we could have found it walking.. Also felt a bit weird to be walking in high heels and Mike in a jacket and tie – through these streets… We were greeted at the parking area in front of the restaurant by a Moroccan dressed totally in white (off white) with the requisite fez hat .. On top of his outfit he had a white cape which he proudly spread out as he greeted us…

Once inside this palatial former home with about 30 rooms… we were escorted to the roof to get a view of the medina.. Then brought to another floor with a gorgeous lit pool… where we had champagne and snacks… Moroccan ganau band and performers “serenaded” all the restaurant guests… great sound… Then we were brought to a table, which we shared with a British-Jordanian couple and their 10-year old. The restaurant was set up with large tables, so if you didn’t have a group of 8 or more you were placed with others. So we were with a pediatric surgeon who trained first in Cairo, then at Penn and Toronto… then practiced back in Jordan and Saudi Arabia, before settling in London. They were here for a long weekend. (We’ve run into very few Americans – most foreigners are Italian, especially in Marakesh; quite a few Brits; some Spaniards; and a sprinkling of Germans and Japanese… oh and French)

The meal at Yacout was high drama – starting with 16 different Moroccan salads spread out across the table leaving little room for all the required glasses for the different liquids (champagne, wines, waters, etc.)… Then came the amazing pastilla (these unbelievable “pies” with pigeon and honey and spices baked into a wonderful sweet crust). Generally the pastillas are about 4″ in diameter… This was about 20″ in diameter and they cut it into wedges… so the presentation was unusual.. This was followed by a fish tangine… along with some belly dancers and the musicians… Then there was a bit of an interlude… at midnight … with everyone headed back out to the pool area (it’s indoors and dramatically lit).. Where the ganauian band played the music and we all danced like we had in Fes… Mike and I joined in rather quickly with everyone surrounding the pool… Then it was back to eating again.. With a lamb tagine … followed by a “chest” that arrived at each table… The chest (kind of like a pirate’s chest) was opened… it was totally edible.. And filled with sweets.. The Moroccans have unbelievable sweet tooths… so desserts are plentiful..

We left Yacout at about 2 a.m….
Today, Jan 1, was pretty tame.. Walking, walking, walking.. We visited Bahia Palace which was designed and built over a 14 year period by about 40 of the best craftsmen in Marakesh to house the vizier, his four wives and 28 concubines…. It’s as tastefully opulent as it gets…if that is possible… We also went through the mellah (the Jewish section) which is now housing very very-low income Muslims.. Pretty depressing.. And to the Jewish cemetery.. And then to the Saadienne tombs…

Took a taxi to the train station in the new city (to check it out and get tickets for our trip from Marakech to Casablanca on Thursday)… the taxi managed to get into a small accident with another car.. Actually our taxi was stopped (with us in it, along with the driver).. But the other passenger sitting next to the driver (there’s always several people in the taxi.. Everyone going somewhere else, but the driver making double money… ) had gotten out to get cigarettes.. Anyway, there’s never really enough room for all the vehicles on any of the streets.. So a small van sideswiped our taxi.. Pretty minor.. But in the states we’d all be getting license and insurance info.. Here there was a bit of anger with each driver blaming the other.. And then the cop who happened to be close by.. Just waved both cars on.. And that was that.. Or so it seemed.

Tonight we went to a hip newish restaurant that was described as Thai-Moroccan fusion… The only fusion was that they served both kind of dishes.. Quite over-rated and expensive I’d say.. But it was packed with hip Italians and French – not sure where they are getting all this money.

Walked back through the square again.. And back to the riad… Amid the dark streets no matter what time – it was about 11 pm tonight – barbers and hair salons are open and thriving.. Seems like lots of people, especially men, get their hair cut late at night… Tomorrow is packing day, and a visit to the gardens that Yves St. Laurent bought and rehabilitated as a gift to the people of Morocco..

Oh nearly forgot to mention one of our great purchases.. Which we just stumbled on.. In the square. A little circular “track” on which sits George Bush in a tank with machine guns.. Chasing Osama.. Around the track… Battery operated, made in China… You’ll have to see it.

Happy New Year.. See you all back on home turf in a few days.. Best for 2008