ICELAND July 21, 2008: Americans in Iceland – Day Five

Greetings from Budir, Iceland

Today we lucked out for part of the day — the sun actually came out and it was spectacular.

Following a wonderful breakfast, complete with a grand variety of fruits, fish, cheese, and breads and jams.. Mike and I borrowed the car and set out to drive the tip of the peninsula.. we started by going over the mountain ridge to the north side — mostly a gravel road that we shared with many sheep (we decided they were the ‘locals’ and always gave them the right of way. By then it was raining and windy (the typical weather condition in Iceland, we are learning).. but we reached Olavfsvik (one of the ‘larger’ communities on the peninsula (population about 1,000) with a harbor and center for fishing.

From there we headed west, stopping several times to see small villages and settlements and to marvel at the craggy coast. Getting out of the car was not always easy as the wind was pretty fierce. Kept thinking this would be a beautiful place to visit in the summer… and then realized this is summer. But as we traversed the coast and started heading south east.. the sun appeared and everything truly lit up.. colors changed drastically.

We came back to pick up Richard and Elizabeth and headed for a town called Hellnar only a few kilometers from here — year round population is three (3)… summer population really swells to about 100 – a true metropolis. Here we hiked along the shore and to various caves which appear to be havens for birds… also drove up close to one of the glaciers..

We’ve learned that Icelandic is truly impossible to pick up as a language and that much of the pronunciation is totally counter intuitive.. when two Ls are together one of them is pronounced with a “t”.. when f and n are together it’s pronounced like pn (open)… rm is pronounced like tn in button… get it?  We don’t.. .

Only one minor setback so far.. which I hope clears up quickly… While climbing onto a section of rock and very high grass and moss.. I managed to take a step into what appeared to be grass, but was a deep hole that was covered by grass… and I seem to have bruised my big toe… Right now I’ve got it covered with ice in the hope of quickly eliminating any additional problems.. (hope it’s not broken)… slightly swollen.. and hurts when I walk, which will become a problem for these next few days of travel.. but I’m optimistic that it’s just a bruise.

1 a.m. and it is still light out.. sort of like 9 p.m. in California in the summer. Just finished dinne .. It was Richard’s birthday… no year will be mentioned.. but he wanted the chef’s surprise 5 course dinner.. so it was… along with the chef’s since selection for each course.
So for those of you who are really into food here goes or at least this is what I remember:
1.  scallops and tiger prawns on bed of aoli and balsamic with watercress served with French champagne
2.  smoked eel with mango and greens served with new Zealand white wine (pinot gris I think)
3.  halibut (about as tender as you can imagine) with some veggies I cannot remember and a lobster fish stock.. served with a white Spanish wine
4. baby lamb chops au jus served with baby carrots, baby asparagus, and some kind of potato shredded very thin and piled into some geometric shape… served with a Spanish red wine
5.  a medley of desserts.. including a chocolate souffle cake thing served in a tea cup, berries with some kind of berry sauce reduction, and cream.. and maybe there was something else on the plate.. served with port..

Needless to say, I’m stuffed, feel like I gained a few pounds, despite all the walking.. and while it is after 1 a.m. it feels like 9 p/m/ We leave after breakfast for Rekyjvak and London to Bath… The rains have stopped; it is beautiful outside.. calm and light… and much warmer..
It’s a beautiful country — rather cheery given the climate — quite interesting politically (the first real democracy)…
I’d like to return and learn more.. without the encumbrance of the language…

See you all stateside in a few days.. Will only write if something fascinating occurs since the remaining few days are in England and I doubt that’s of much interest to any of you.

Best —
Fern