TURKEY December 19, 2009: Americans in Turkey – Day 3: Spices, Fish, Whirling Dervishes

Greetings from Istanbul — not as cold as previous days and actually it’s clear (no sun, but not awful) –Feel free to delete these and the subsequent segments of the travelogue. No hard feelings. This is Turkey #3 for those who keep asking.

Began today with an earlier start. Following breakfast at the hotel (where we ran into people from the Bay Area who were running an Eco Cities conference here in Istanbul, and who we know casually in California), we trekked to the spice market, which only seems to be called that by foreigners, since when we got lost and tried to ask for directions no upstanding Turk knew what we were talking about. But we found our way.. and after surveying the many stalls went to a nearby mosque — not a famous one, but quite impressive — where I did need to don a head covering (my scarf did fine).. then walked across the Galata Bridge where literally hundreds of men (and I counted one woman) were lined up fishing from the bridge.. Quite an operation; can only imagine what it seems like for the fish swimming below tempted by bait every inch or two.

We headed to the fish market which is small but has an impressive array of booths with different kinds of fish — all of it looking quite good, but we were on a mission to locate a particular fish restaurant that the NY Times discussed about four years ago… There wasn’t any address, just a general description of the area and the fact that it was located next to a tiny shop that sold bolts — yes, bolts as in hardware. We had the name and the general location, but that was it. We asked many people and we knew we were in the general area. No one could help, but everyone referred us to a fish restaurant that they liked. I have to admit that Mike was tempted by every fish restaurant we passed, but I was determined to find this one… and we did…

The fish market is a series of stalls right near the water.. paralleling the water’s edge. Behind that row of fish stalls interspersed with fish eateries — all outdoor, regardless of weather — is an alley totally lined on both sides with tiny tiny hardware shops.. each specializing in a particular tool or piece of equipment or supply… off of this street is a smaller street, more like a “lane” with several stores that sell bolts… off of that street is an even tinier alley.. and lo and behold, there was the restaurant.. if you can call it that.. two or three tables when you enter and then a rickety spiral staircase to the “upstairs dining room” which has two tiny rooms with about two tables in each. We opted for the upstairs… with the view of the hardware store row… The owner(?) brings out a platter of raw fish and you make your selection… it’s just fish… I had a fantastic snapper cooked in parchment and Mike opted for a swordfish kebab.. we started with an incredibly good fish stew (which could have been the whole meal… Other than that it’s bread and water!

Fortified by lunch we walked back over the Galata Bridge (which at midpoint, when a bus is crossing, feels like an earthquake magnitude about 9!)

I walked back to the Grand Bazaar in search of a few stalls with goods I wanted to take a second look at, and Mike decided to head for the Archaeological Museum (although I think he went to the hotel for a nap).. I strolled around for an hour or so — and then walked back to the hotel (and also for a glass of raki – the anise flavored Turkish liqueur — at the Four Seasons which is across the street from our hotel.)

We then headed out to see the Whirling Dervishes at an old Hamaam… a real snoozer.. I guess if you are Sufi you feel different.. but we were in the first row in a room with chairs around the circle where the guys swirl around… it’s pretty monotonous. Thank god it was only an hour. We walked to the place and once we were pretty close began to ask people where the building was.. No one had a clue. Anyway, we did find it (maybe it would have been better to miss it).. Then it was off to dinner (more eating)… We wanted to go to a particular restaurant we had heard about, but it was closed for the winter.