TURKEY 2009: Americans in Turkey – Day 7 – December 23 and 24, 2009

December 24 in Urgup, Turkey

I think I left off on the 22nd after we arrived at the Four Seasons, following our visit to Harran… in our “no-star” hotel… and the police escort story… Photos include Four Seasons… from nights of 22nd and 23rd.

So, yesterday (Dec 23)  was somewhat uneventful – a gray, but totally pleasant day – strolling Istanbul, with a brief stop at the Jewish Museum which is located in an old synagogue. The exhibit stresses the good relationship between the Jews and the Turks over many centuries and how the Turks supported many Jews during WWII — offering a haven against persecution. (Later in the day, it was interesting that when we stopped in a small shop, the  owner chatted with us a bit and revealed that he and the entire staff (all family) were Jewish and he explained his own background and that of his family.)

The days are quite short, made even more so by the fact that skies are pretty gray — so we ended our last night in Istanbul with dinner at an old restaurant somewhat far afield from where we were staying — up on the top floor (where the restaurant takes up the whole building — small building with small footprint) — 5 stories up, walking up a spiral staircase to a room with about 5 tables. It probably has a good view of the city in good weather. Won’t go into the menu, because it’s difficult to get a bad meal here.

We began Christmas Eve morning (which looked like it would be a nice sunny day — and much warmer than it had been in prior days) headed to the Istanbul Airport (now our fourth time)  By now we know the routine — plane will always be late, so just find a good place to wait… and have some reading materials available.

As we boarded the bus to the plane (to head to Kayseri) we were squooshed together with a very well-dressed Turkish couple whose English was impeccable. She was carrying a shopping bag of very well wrapped presents which she then told me were for her son in the Army (definitely the classiest gifts any soldier will receive this season). Like Finland and other countries, serving in the Turkish Army is compulsory (perhaps the great equalizer?). Turns out her son is stationed in Kayseri and they were visiting for the holidays (obviously not Muslims).

By the time we boarded the plane, we were fast friends and I learned that she had spent several childhood years in Knoxville, Tennessee. I laughed because I had detected a slight southern accent, but had been more struck by the fact that her English was flawless and had no hint of Turkish (which was, I believe the first time we encountered this)… Anyway, turns out that she and her husband also own a place in Boca Raton, Florida – where another son lives. We chatted a bit about Florida and how frequently they travel there (exchanging phone numbers – because she wanted us to have an emergency number after she realized we’d be traveling alone – without guides through to Antalya)…  After we deplaned and waited for baggage (yes we are checking bags for these small planes, especially since there are no upgrades), we chatted some more and she recalled a funny story:

She was in Boca and wanted to use the parking space belonging to a neighbor whom she didn’t know. When she saw the neighbor begin to pull out of the space, she ran to the car and blurted out “Are you’all fixin’ to leave now?” in a southern accent that she said comes to her when she’s tired… The Boca woman agreed to have her use the space, but then asked where she was from and she answered “Turkey”.. The Boca woman said “Oh — you must be from the Southern part of Turkey because of your accent!”

OK.. we rented the car, which was a kick, since once again EuropCar was not actually at the airport. But, a rep was waiting for us after we got out of the airport (it’s a very very small airport). He drove us to the office (explaining in the car how he sold carpets on the side—we tried to ignore that part of the conversation) and we signed all the papers and headed to Urgup. The drive was fairly easy — passing many of the cave dwellings , some inhabited, many abandoned — and signage good, until we got to the little village of Urgup. We asked several people and were eventually directed up the hill to Yunak Everli a cluster of 40 rooms built into an original set of 6 large cave houses and a mansion. We have a cave (with a definite 5 star rating) that is about 750 sq ft. It’s got four rooms – living room, bedroom, bathroom, and entry room. Lots of stairs and different levels — about three levels (all partial, not like three levels vertical).. The walls are white hand honed “rock”… The detailing is quite sophisticated in decor. We have one window at the front with a commanding view of lots of cave dwellings and the town (since we are up pretty high)… It’s colder than it was in Istanbul, but warmer than we imagined. They say that normally it would be about 10 degrees colder and that there would be a lot of snow.

Anyway, we’re excited to explore the area beginning tomorrow (Christmas Day). The cave dwellings go back to BC. Many of the surviving ones are from 3rd century AD – when the Christians were escaping the Romans.. then some from the 7th and 9th centuries when Christians were escaping the Arabs, and then later they attracted holy men and monks escaping the world …

There are supposed to be hundreds or thousands of cave churches here and an entire underground city. So far, our quick look shows that is similar to Gaudix in southern Spain (near Grenada) but more inhabited..

In the distance, we can see Mount Argaeus 12,800’… totally covered in snow and a gorgeous backdrop.. which erupted millions of years ago and flooded the region with a white lava which is the base of all the caves.. the lava is soft until it comes in contact with the air, making it carvable..

I’m off.. more tomorrow.

Fern