MEXICO February 16, 2010: Dia Tres en Coyoacan

Martes, 16 de Febrero

Amigos:

Today, my Spanish lesson was at the casita. I walked to the Viveros Metro station to meet Maria (who is not very familiar with either Metro — she relies on buses — or Coyoacan). I, on the other hand, am now quite familiar with the little neighborhood and with Metro. Maria and I connected easily and today she wore Nikes instead of high heels. I mentioned yesterday (as she struggled on the city streets) that Coyoacan had cobblestone streets.

We sat in the totally charming courtyard of the casita and began today’s discussion (about Mexican politics!) I learned that Maria is one of the more than 60% who do not have seguro (health insurance) although according to Peter (our American friend who has lived here for 15 years and is planning to stay permanently), by 2012 all Mexicans will be covered through seguro publico and that already the majority are covered. I think Maria is referring to private health insurance which she thinks is far better than the public plan.

Oh, I forgot to mention that last night we took a taxi that we hailed from the street and got a little Volkswagen bug.. with the front passenger seat removed so that we (or any other group of two) could easily get into the taxi. .. clever??

I also learned about the three major parties and where Maria thinks they each are on the political spectrum. Mostly I found out that she (and according to her, all Mexicans) thinks all the Mexican parties and government are corrupto! with the PAN (the most conservador) being menos poco corrupto.. or a tiny bit less corrupt than the others. She also says that the Catholic church is behind the PAN so it has a lot of money to fight off opposition. (Peter is a bit more optimistic and believes the PRI stands a good chance of winning elections in 2012.)

Maria talked about the fact that there are no results from the taxes that Mexicans pay so they believe all the money goes into someone’s pockets. We discussed American taxation and how all of our money goes to la guerra.. so it’s a matter of spending for the war or spending to increase the size of someone’s bolsa. I learned that agua is a major problem for Mexico and that some apartimientos are rationed as to water use. Maria’s mother watches su hijo y cuidado por los ninos es muy caro (just like in the states)…

Tomorrow we meet at Parque Mexicano.. in a small biblioteca located on the grounds.

After my lesson, I met up with Mike and we walked to a cute cafe/bookstore located a few blocks from the casita. I then went back to the Frida Kahlo Museo which was quite interesting (and where I saw the bed that Trotsky slept in when he lived with Frida and Diego, when he was in Mexico), walked back through the market and el Parque Allende, and then returned to get some work done.

Later Mike and I walked to the Viveros Metro station to catch the train to meet Peter for dinner. We caught the train to Banderas where we needed to change to the train to Insurgentes. As we got to the platform we realized that during rush hour (which goes from 4:00 until 11 pm) they have different lines to wait for the train — separating women and children from the men… to avoid problems. Since I was with Mike I had to go in one of the cars designated for hombres.. Quite an experience. The men’s cars were packed body to body.. The women’s cars were spacious. Anyway, we made it to Banderas and then attempted to get out of the train, but huge groups of men were trying to get on the train and everyone was pushing — those trying to get off the train and those trying to get on the train. I walked close behind Mike as he elbowed off the train.. but then suddenly he was surrounded by men trying to get onto the train and I got literally pushed (shoved) back onto the train and for a short time, thought I’d be headed wherever that train was going.. But Mike grabbed my arm and literally tugged and pulled me through the crowd.
Geesh… makes NYC subway system seem polite, controlled, and peaceful.

Finally made it to the transfer train and to Insurgentes station and a short walk to the restaurant, where we met up with Peter. Fonda el Refugio is an old Mexican restaurant that has been in operation for more than 50 years. Food was quite good, and we started with escamole (ant eggs) — a delicacy, which was fantastic (and pricey)..

After dinner we chose a taxi over the Metro.

Ah, Mike had an interesting experience. He was scheduled to give a lecture and had it in his calendar (but apparently for a day later than the actual date). So as he was quietly strolling neighborhoods taking photos, when he got a call on his cell from the chair of the department asking where he was.. Mike said he was checking out neighborhoods.. They said there was an auditorium full of people waiting for him to deliver his talk.. Fortunately Mike had his thumb drive in his pocket but he needed to get to the University and he was about 30 minutes away by foot.. he hailed a truck driver who was about to enter his truck.. and in his phenomenal Spanish said … “Yo soy Profesor y es necessario voy a universidad.”… The guy motioned to jump in and delivered Mike to the door of the building.. given that things often begin in Mexican time, seems like he made it just fine.

Hasta luego; mas manana en dia cuatro.

Fern