HONDURAS December 24, 2010: Americans in Honduras – Dia 5

This will be coming in several parts, because I don’t have any Internet service. Imagine — Both Mike and me… no cell connection, no blackberry connection, no iPhone, no computer… But I’m writing this note in parts and will attempt to send it through the Blackberry when we are within a service zone (if not, you will be getting it on December 26)… but in reality it is now about 7 PM on Christmas Eve. We just arrived in heaven! Although getting here was hell!

We are in the most luxurious jungle lodge imaginable. Nine cottages connected by stone paths on more than 90 acres. Our cottage is about 800 sq feet.. We have a little loft above our bedroom; a screened in patio with mango wood couch and chairs, a giant bathroom with stone tub, and a huge outdoor shower, surrounded by palms. From the patio we can see the waterfalls (there are several on the property).

Now for the earlier part of the day…

Before I go into the travails of the day, let me also exclaim joy in that this jungle lodge has hair dryers and all the best bath products. I’m in total heaven.. oh wireless would be nice but… ??

So, we began the day at the Cesar Marisco Hotel (the shrimp restaurant hotel) which I didn’t really like much and felt that everyone at the place was hustling non-stop. When we asked about getting to this Garufina village we had read about (interestingly named “Miami” — but as different as night and day).. they immediately wanted to set up a tour, so we deferred…

I decided (much to Mike’s disapproval) that we should either drive to Miami (all dirt roads and it rained very heavily yesterday).. or find a guy with a boat and pay him to take us to Miami (it’s on a peninsula across from Tela… about 10 miles by car and about 30 minutes in a motor boat out in the Caribbean Sea). We walked to the wharf and down to the sea where we saw some guys repairing boats. They said it would cost 2,000 lempira (about $100 round trip).. That seemed very expensive, so we walked away and decided to find another route.

But, then we thought about it, and while $100 seemed very expensive in Honduras, it wasn’t that much for us.. so we turned around and went for it. But the guy didn’t have the motor for his boat and it would take an hour to get it… Anyway, one guy called to another and then another and then Raul arrived, and he had a boat. Turned out Raul is the “hefe” so two young guys actually took us out to sea on Raul’s boat.

The boat trip out (just Mike and me, the “scout”, and the boat operator) on this approx 30′ fiberglass, well-used, open motorboat.. about 5′ at the widest dimension.. a bit scary to say the least. We were fully airborne at least once, partially airborne numerous times, and the rest of the 35-minute trip was nail-biting. On the trip out I was pretty sure I might live in Miami for life, to avoid taking the boat a second time.

So, Miami is a village of about 200 people — all Garufina — a people who trace their ancestry to Africa and Carib Indians. They live without any electricity, and no running water, in thatched huts that are about 150 sq ft… There’s a tiny school for the very young children (some of whom followed us everywhere). I gather they get occasional tourists — mostly at a special holiday — Semana Santa — at Easter time. The Garufina don’t believe in government; they just think evryone should do the right thing. How novel!

Life is pretty simple there.. although cell phones have made their appearance; not sure how they charge them.

We spent about two hours; and we waited about an hour for our food, cooked by Celine.. apparently some of the women just open their kitchens if people come and then charge for the meal. The boat guys told us Celine was the best. It took her about an hour to cook the meal, tipico food… and totally locavore.

We had fish (not sure what kind, but it had just been caught) that she smothered with very finely grated coconut and palm oil. Cooked on an open fire in a small pan. Fresh frijoles, and fresh plaintains, slightly sauteed.. Totally great; best meal so far. We sat on little benches under a canopy of palm fronds and looked out at the Caribbean. Maybe I can do this??

But, alas, we took the boat back, and the return trip (with the late afternoon breezes) made the outbound trip seem calm.. Took about 45 minutes since we were going against the currents; the swells were about 4′.. anyway, made it alive.

Then we set out to find Las Cascadas (where I am sitting now).. We drove to La Ceiba (about 90 minutes) and then per directions turned onto a road which turned into a dirt and rock fiasco about 1/2 km later.. We were sure we took a wrong turn.. turned around.. asked in a bar.. and we had been heading in the right direction.. so we continued (in the dark) along this rocky, muddy, dirt road…
and we eventually wound up here at Las Cascadas.. a true find!.. but no wireless… no TV.. no connection to the world.. but heaven.

Just had dinner.. fillet mignon, real vegetables, edible salad. Margaritas. Chilean wine, and even after-dinner drinks. We are totally totally happy.

More tomorrow on Christmas Day… never got to that midnight mass in Ceiba.. the thought of driving that road again, was just too much. Tomorrow we hike.. (moderate trail to the waterfalls) and I think we are going to check out a woman’s sewing coop we heard about.. Nothing too strenuous.. Need to be ready for another great meal.. By the way, Bruce – the manager here at Las Cascadas (and the do-it-all guy – bartender, chef, chief guide, etc. lived in Brooklyn for two years (on a boat in a canal) and in Roatan for a few years, and in several other places.. and is originally from Montana.. came here for this job in March..

Best — Fern