Mississippi May 3, 2012: Day one and two:: Deep in the heart of Dixie

Hi y’all,

Well I’ve never sent travelogues when moving about within the US. But these past days (and actually past weeks) it’s been more like being in a foreign country. So it seems appropriate to chronicle appropriately.

I was traveling along the Texas border a week ago but now I’m deep in Mississippi  traveling along the Delta. I’m working on a project that involves a broad array of totally amazing organizations that are organizing extremely impoverished communities (or low wealth communities, as they refer to themselves — indicating that they may be poor financially but strong in other ways) to build a broader movement toward social change.  They are funded – in part- through the marguerite Casey foundation, our client

Anyway. I arrived Tuesday in Jackson ms. And began what would be a series of very long, complicated, and fascinating interviews. And a memorable drive up the delta terminating in Memphis   At the moment as I write to you I’m devouring a plate of (what else?) fried green tomatoes with “comeback sauce” and waiting for my blackened catfish.

Now I just need to get it off my chest that I’m tired of being called ma’am and Miss Fern. Ok. No more on that. The latter term is used by everyone.

Oh. You should know I’ve been to these parts a few times before. Twice in 2004 for a similar project and previously on a driving trip throught the antebellum south with a detour to tutwiler.

Following a fascinating 4 hour session with the co-founders of Southern Echo and becoming totally immersed in their very impressive organizing, community building, and organizational building model I headed to Lexington MS in a total downpour complete with lightning and thunder and my total fear that I’d confront a tornado. (Was on the phone while driving in this awful weather, and Mike suggested that if I see a funnel cloud I should get under an overpass. Problem is there aren’t any overpasses. Someone at my office said if I see a tornado I need to get into a basement. First: houses are few and far between. Second: they don’t build basements here).

Southern Echo was founded about 25 years ago with the robust goal of ending racism in Mississippi  They work throughout the delta with African American families and communities … And while they have a long way to go to accomplish that ambitious goal, they can cite numerous victories (but many more challenges as they attempt to navigate school district politics, redistricting, voting rights, and other critical issues). Anyway I had met the executive director many times but this was my first meeting with the co founder — who turned out to be white, a former SNCC activist from Harvard—via Brooklyn!! So after some fun conversations about our shared heritage we moved in to more important stuff.

Ok. No tornado and finally made it (about an hour late) to Lexington. Here, I’m meeting with a bunch of activists–some of whom I met years ago and was anxious to get caught up.

Lexington has a population of about 2,000 people. Unemployment is recorded as 35 % but it’s probably well over 50 %. My meeting place was a tiny house converted into small offices for the nonprofit Nollies. The walk from my rental car (with West Virginia license plates) was on a slippery mud path. (not good with sandals).

Won’t go into detail on meetings but it was great to reconnect with these folks but simultaneously depressing to hear their continuing struggles. One of the people at Nollies was Diana Freelon Foster who I met in Grenada Mississippi in 2004 soon after she had been elected as the first female and first African American mayor of the 15,000 population town. Diana was one of the students who integrated the all-white high school in 1966 and was beaten on the first day. I remembered her vividly from 2004 — proud of the coalition she had built and of her ambitious agenda as mayor and of the African American community which gained hope and experience thru her victory.

It was bittersweet to hear Diana explain that after just 18 months there was some kind of annexation and redistricting which led to a new election with different voters and she lost her coveted seat. She now runs a poorly funded nonprofit. And she explained how demoralized her constituents were. Many were newly engaged residents who were buoyed by the victory and now feel cheated and uninterested in remaining involved. But for Diana it’s just “on to the next” fight.

I left Nollies and headed to Greenwood (about 8 pm by now) to a charming oasis called the Alluvian hotel. Which may be a politically incorrect place to stay. When I was in this area in 2004 I stayed at the usual highway motels (pretty depressing) but one night I heard about a special restaurant in Greenwood and drove 25 miles for dinner. While there, I noticed a small hotel adjacent to the restaurant and was told the local economic development story: A guy from Greenwood married into one of the wealthiest families in town, became an architect, and was designing homes for wealthy people. He couldn’t find really really high-end stoves for the houses and so he designed one. Then he realized other home chefs wanted this item so he developed the Viking line of stoves and appliances. He put the factory in Greenwood. Then he opened cooking school, to teach people how to use the Viking stoves and for high-end cooking. Then he created a restaurant. He renovated old buildings downtown for these functions and then created a first-class hotel. So that’s where I rested my little head on Wednesday night. Tuesday I was at your basic chain hotel except that the band in the lobby was singing Johnny Cash  “Going to Jackson” and I was right there… in Jackson.

Fading. Will describe next day when I take a break. The days have been incredibly long and the sessions very intense.

Fern

Ps. I’m having lots of language problems  harder than foreign country.