Fern e Mike a Rome Giorno 6 – Sept 6 2013 Arrivederci Palermo

Saluti a Roma

Giorno 6. September 6, 2013. Greetings from Roma.. Arrivederci Palermo

Somehow we managed to sleep late and miss breakfast at the Excelsior Hotel in Palermo… could have been that we didn’t finish dinner last night until close to midnight; could be that we stayed up working until about 2 am.. Whatever. Anyway, we were up and out by around 10:15 but lax as the Italians are when it comes to packing up the breakfast at the hotel they could be the Swiss! So we meandered down the street to a tiny tiny café called “The Manhattan” where we were able to get pastries.. As usual they were totally confused when Mike ordered milk.. and then when they said “caldo” he thought that meant “cold” (as opposed to “freddo”) so he nodded yes.. so they made him hot (steamed milk) which then they must have thought was totally weird so they added some espresso!! Mike doesn’t drink coffee at all let alone espresso.

OK… we left the little coffee shop.. and strolled a while and then headed back to pack and check out of the hotel.. Managed to do that in record time and were very proud to have made the decision to check our rollie bags and then just carry on the small computer bags (one each) and I would carry my purse and Mike would carry a small bag… with both of our Nikons. We left the bags at the hotel and walked around, eventually stopping for a light lunch.. We found a little deli style place a few blocks from the hotel which seemed very popular as it was totally crowded.. We finally figured out the system as there’s no table service.. and opted for a plate of mixed vegetables… saving room of course for some gelato.. I guess eating like a vegetarian is a little rare in Palermo but the guy was very sweet and all was well.. Really fresh, inexpensive and just what the doctor ordered. No one ever really wrote down what we ordered at the counter.. but somehow at the end they were able to figure out the cost.. no check, waiter shouted out what we ate and the gelato guy shouted similarly.. no records, nothing complicated.. mmmm.. wonder how they figure out the taxes.

We then took our bags and headed to the airport… opting for the express bus which stopped just around the corner from the hotel.. Was an easy and relaxing 30 minutes.. far better than the taxi option, and feeling a hairline better about our carbon footprints. Got to the Palermo Airport (which has been called Punta Raisa for many years but whose name has been changed to Falcone and Borsellino Airport…) It’s now named after two men — judges — who were murdered in 1992 who were leading Anti-Mafia campaigners and symbols of the struggles against organized crime.  Falcone was killed first.. and Borsellino was his best friend and fellow magistrate. Borsellino was the MC for Falcone’s funeral. Soon after that, Borsellino and his bodyguards were killed.  Both murders were the result of car bombs right in Palermo.

We were flying on EasyJet.. and we lined up to check in and check the two rollies. So, we then found out that because we had already checked in and had not noted on the check-in form that we would be checking any bags we would have to pay 30 EU per bag (as opposed to 11 EU had we noted this when we checked in)… or about $75. No amount of complaining and pleading ignorance would work… But then the next zinger… They only allow one bag per person on the plane as carry on.. so while we were going to check one bag each.. we then each had a computer bag and I had my purse and Mike had the bag with the Nikons (mine and his)… I’ll be damned if I was going to pay the equivalent of $150 to check baggage.. So we stepped aside and repacked… so that we only checked the rollies… I probably could have consolidated a bit more by extending the rollies, but it was already hard to do this all on the floor of the airport with crowds of people all around us.

Checked the two bags and off we went… to the gate, down a flight of stairs, onto the bus, and up a flight of stairs to the plane… Flight was short.. about an hour.. and when we landed in Rome decided to make our way to the Leonardo Express train to the Central Station (Termini) in Rome… about a 30 minute train ride… hoping to further reduce that carbon footprint (I’m a bit self-conscious about this because I recently took one of those carbon footprint tests and learned how bad I am — based heavily on all the flying) and then a taxi to the Hotel Lord Byron (strange name for a hotel in Rome?)… where we will meet up with family tomorrow night.

The Lord Byron Hotel is located near the Villa Borghese and the neighborhood feels a bit like the Presidio in San Francisco — definitely upscale, quiet area, expensive, and seems to have a lot of wealthy seniors living here. In prior trips to Rome we always stayed very central and also in areas with a lot more noise and activity; so this is a big change for us. Obviously, I’m already trying to figure out how I will get to all the hip neighborhoods and it looks like I’ll have to rely on taxis for at least part of the way.. but I’ll manage.

Our room has a framed enlarged picture of Audrey Hepburn a la Breakfast at Tiffany’s. There’s a quote in the lobby area from Noel Coward.. and I guess pictures and quotes from other noted artists are strewn throughout the hotel.. will explore a bit tomorrow.

We quickly unpacked and figured that since it was then 10 pm we should just eat close by… The desk recommended a small “neighborhood” place called Gulivia (sp?)… We assumed pricey, but this still made sense. Turns out that food was very good.. We shared an antipasti (steak tartare with a sort of marmalade that got stirred in) a pasta dish, and a main course of roast pork with Indian spices… all very good and cannot imagine how anyone eats a full dinner menu on their own. Since we were so good at sharing, we finished up with a shared chocolate mousse that was layered with some foamy stuff… looked great and tasted fantastic… Set everything off with a nice Italian wine.

Walked to hotel and here I sit.. reading emails and considering bedtime. Tomorrow we are off to explore Rome… Since we’ve been here several times, no real need for any of the “official touristy stuff”… so it should be fun to just walk and see all the changes… Oh and maybe it’s time for some shopping. Haven’t bought anything except the Erice jams and pestos.

By the way, whatever they are saying about the Euro weakening.. you’d never know it. The dollar is a joke and prices are extremely high. We’ve been coming to Europe (together and separately) nearly every year for the past 30 years… and not only has the dollar plummeted.. prices have also risen. It’s hard to even think about inexpensive ways to travel… Would I really date myself to say that I can remember when the book Europe on $5 a Day was really really popular.. At that time… maybe mid 1960s… I wasn’t yet traveling anywhere (except from Brooklyn to Manhattan). By the time I started to travel $25 a Day per person was probably very possible — especially traveling as a student..

Oh well… Buonanotte..

Tomorrow is another day..

By the way, for those who have asked… I’m back on Thursday.

Fern

PS — Obviously the Lord Byron doesn’t really expect people to be traveling and working; no desk in the room.. so I have to do everything on my lap in a chair.. You should see the two of us trying to balance computers and paperwork..