August 28 2014. Helsinki

Terve Terve

Hope all is well in the states and wherever you may be.

Started out this morning at the Clinic Mehiläinen — a private clinic with every kind of specialty you can imagine. Took a number (you take numbers for everything in Finland) and was called up in less than five minutes. After filling out a simple form and paying 150 EU, I was sent to wait in front of an examining room and the doctor (in jeans and sneakers and somewhat unshaven in a sexy way.. oh had a lab coat on too) came out to greet me about a minute later. Looked at my foot and decided I should get x-rays — down the hall. I was called for the x-ray immediately and they shot three angles.. then went back to the doctor who looked at the x-rays with me on the computer. So I have a fracture in the fifth metatarsal (but in his words “in a very good position”). I think this means that it is not near a joint so there is room to heal. He suggested I wear some shoes with thick rubber soles and take it easy, but did not say I needed to be bedridden. I left with a CD of the x-rays.. and had to pay an additional 75 EU. (I could have gone to the ER at the public hospital and been treated for free, but I would have to wait, so this seemed the easiest.

From the Clinic, we stopped at a shoe store and I picked up a rather nice pair of black shoes (Campers) that have a soft thick sole.. I wore them out of the store.. Then we headed by taxi to Eerikinkatu 25B where we had an apartment when we lived in Helsinki. We’ve returned to take pictures in front of the building every time we’ve visited. The building hasn’t changed at all, but the neighborhood is much more upscale than when we lived there. The neighborhood is called Kamppi and because of its proximity to both downtown and to the harbor (which at the time we lived there, was a working harbor) it was known for its high number of “pulijokis” (drunks). Indeed in the little park (a small triangle area formed by the convergence of some angled streets) there is now a statue to Arvo Parkkila (a formerly homeless alcoholic) who formed a support group for other homeless alcoholics and helped them find food, shelter, and emergency care. (So who knows, I might have met Arvo when I lived there as we came upon many drunkards on the street when arriving home late.)

Because of my foot, we walked slowly — covering less ground than I would have liked, but still we walked from Eerikinkatu (which is no longer the haven of the homeless and alcoholics but rather the center of the Finnish Design District with lots of small stores of artisans, jewelers, craftspeople, weavers, and clothing and furniture designers!!) So we strolled the area in a somewhat pre-determined route because there were definitely a few places we (maybe I) wanted to get to, including the atelier of Vuokko a wonderful Finnish fabric and clothing designer with a long history in Helsinki — designing her own collection since the 60s and before that she was a major player in developing the artistic style of Marimekko, as the head designer. In my opinion, her work is much truer to the origins of the Marimekko line than the Marimekko we see today. Indeed, she was responsible for the simple Marimekko stripe shirts. Vuokko Nurmesniemi’s signature design was the simple red and white striped shirt named Jokapoika. At 84, she’s still a strong designer and working away! Anyway, while I’ve been to the shop many times over the years it is rare that I can buy anything for myself as her designs are for much taller women.. But… Mike bought a great shirt! Watch out.. here comes Mike the fashionista!! (Oh it’s just grey and black stripes.. but quite wonderful)..

After about an hour or so, I felt the new shoes were actually hurting my foot… so we stumbled on some weird shop that was having a sale with piles of shoes in random sizes and styles all over the place.. and I purchased another pair of shoes.. sort of black sneaker-type shoes made in Sweden for 10 EU.. A total bargain.. I’m sure the place is a front for something.. So then I wore those shoes for the rest of the day.

Along the way we stopped for a light lunch.. at Maxell.. a small café not too far from the Design Center.. shared a salad that had (naturally) grilled salmon, a variety of lettuces, cucumbers, avocado, ginger, and a wasabi dressing.. and wonderful black bread with fruit baked inside. Yummy.

Made a brief stop at the Architecture Design Museum, which is in a wonderful Deco-ish building (Helsinki has a large number of fantastic buildings from the 1920s that are beautifully preserved, with a great deal of stone carvings and interesting graphics).. They had an exhibit of the award winning architecture for the year. Finnish design — always well done (except for that Radisson Hotel we stayed at for the first two nights), lots of wood and glass, strong geometry, great sense of place and space. Eventually meandered back to the hotel just as the rain started. Just as we settled into the room to relax, the sun came out.. Considered strolling to Market Square at the water, but decided not to risk it since it looked like rain would start again.. And it did — about 30 minutes later. I had a conference call to take with a Miami group.. So now we are both working (me– as soon as I finish this note), and will head out for dinner in an hour or so. I think we are going to a new place (lots of interesting new young chefs in Helsinki creating very fascinating fusion cooking) We’re headed to a place called Juuri.. serving “sapas” which are like tapas (but maybe smaller?).. but named after the chef I believe.

Will let you know the results of the meal.. tomorrow.

Back to work.

Fern