Greetings from Cape Town. August 2, 2016

Good Evening… or Ulale Kahle in Zulu … from Capetown –

I think many of you are aware that I was headed to Cape Town to do some research on the feasibility of setting up a UWT global program here in Cape Town, where students would work in the townships (beginning next summer) as part of a new global program for UWT. It’s a short but intense trip … I’m on the ground for about 6 days, and travel is equal to about 3 days… It’s a grueling flight for a short visit. But having completed my first day here, it’s totally worth it.

I won’t go into a lot of detail about my journey… but let’s just say that it was an amazingly intense week in Oakland – finishing a project for San Mateo County Office of Education, working on two other project with tight deadlines, responding to questions from the IRS auditor (the feds have decided that they are extremely interested in my 2014 tax return – I believe there are a lot bigger fish to fry – but I’ve been responding.. thus far about 2,600 pages of information), going to as many films as I can manage at the SF Jewish Film Festival (I’m on the board), entertaining an out of town guest, and packing! So, naturally, I was finishing packing at about 2 am on Saturday night (really Sunday morning) and my flight was at 7:20 am on Sunday morning… so I woke up at 4:30 am and left for the airport at about 5:30…

I flew from SFO to DC (roughly 6 hours) on United and from DC to Joburg with a short pit stop (couldn’t get off the plane) in Dakar, Senegal.. then from Joburg to Capetown – all totaled about 35 hours. My flight from DC to Joburg was delayed for about 90 minutes, making my connection in Joburg very very tight. Naturally, the gate people gave me the incorrect gate and bad directions (supposedly a short cut at the Joburg airport), so I got to the plane barely in time. I was in business class, so that helped overall… and while South African Air has its detractions, they do have a great feature in business class – a massage button that lets you nod off with the repetitive motion.. with just a click of a button. Anyway, arrived on time or maybe a tad late.. and found my “driver” who brought me to the B&B where the three of us (me, Chris–my colleague at UWT and co-director of the program, and Alexa who is in the School of Education at UWT) are staying by midnight or so. There was a driver waiting for me at the airport – a Kenyan who came to SA about 10 years ago seeking better opportunities. We had a little chat on the drive – he says most people in SA think Trump will win the election. Frightening!

We are staying in a little house that has been renovated into a B&B on Rose Street in the BoKaap neighborhood … When Mike and I were here about 11 years ago we also stayed in this neighborhood, but in a small hotel. It is traditionally a multicultural area of Cape Town known for its brightly colored homes and cobblestone streets. It’s still a bit seedy, especially at the edges, but it’s a wonderful location and I’m glad we are here. When we were here previously it was called the Malay District and had a lot of Malaysians living here. Now it is called BoKaap.

After a quick cup of tea and unpacking… I finally went to bed, 45 hours after beginning my journey.

Today, Tuesday, (August 2) was chock full.

Woke up fairly early and had quick breakfast at the house. A bit about the two others at the house: Chris whom I know fairly well (we were both in Coventry UK about a year ago and co-taught a course in Spring 2015. Joining us is Alexis who is an administrator in the Global Studies program. We all arrive separately with me arriving last—late last night. Chris lived in Cape Town for a year as a Fulbright scholar in 2007 so he knows the city pretty well, although even he admits as to how much things have changed. Chris is a professor in the school of education and is a critical race sholar.

At about 9:45 we set off to Phillipi, the township we hope to have the students work in next summer. The NGO, Amandla Development, was having a meeting and discussion with a bunch of collaborating NGOs, and we sat in. Philippi is one of the larger townships in Cape Town, although its exact size (like that of many other townships) is unknown, because it is nearly impossible (and not in the government’s interest) to count people who live in such marginal conditions. That said the 2011 census said there were 191,000 people living in Philippi, so let’s say it’s probably at least 220,000?? This township is relatively new, founded in the 1980s. It’s seen by government as ideal for some business-related development, but it’s unknown what impact that would have on residents (who are living in ramshackle structures made of repurposed corrugated metal, cardboard, and other materials found in the dumps). It is a “black” township, as compared to “colored” townships, found nearby. Until 1980 this area was used for grazing and there were probably a few small farms, but residential growth occurred rapidly as apartheid policies and economic migrants from the Eastern Cape settled into Philippi and other nearby townships such as Langa and Samora Machel.  As resistance to apartheid grew, Philippi became a refuge from the political unrest.  More and more people came to live in Philippi, especially when farms were eliminated nearby, due to urban sprawl.

Mike and I visited this and other townships nearby about a decade ago, and I’d say that things are about the same, except that the township is larger and more dense.

Anyway, we all sat in on the meeting which included about a dozen NGOs who are trying to work together to address social and economic issues confronting residents of Philippi (too many to even fathom), and this workshop was to discuss ways to measure effectiveness. I have to say that it was a bit difficult to listen to the conversation about “inputs” and “outputs” and “outcomes” when the problems are so immense. Somehow, while I get it that they need to evaluate their work (especially to attract funding), I think they need to think in new and different ways to address these problems and worry less about the Western jargon about evaluation. Anyway, all good folks doing amazing work.

From there we headed to Muizenberg, a beachside community for the traditional fish and chips – got my quota of fried foods. We ate at a little place right on the beach… and watched the boats. It’s winter here in Cape Town, so people think it is frightfully cold (actually very much like Bay Area). From here we went to a café near the B&B to discuss what the curriculum options might be for the program – and I think we came up with some great ideas that will make the experience for students quite powerful.  Then we headed to dinner at Bocca to meet some of Chris’ friends from his time living here. Dinner lasted about four hours and we discussed both South Africa’s election (which takes place tomorrow) and the US election, seen through the eyes of South Africans.

They see this election (SA) as critical to the future of SA. It’s a set of local elections, but they will set the stage for the 2019 national election.. and apparently it is a real barometer of what’s to come. It’s the fifth local election since the end of apartheid state in the mid-90s. The ANC will now see if it still representing the aspirations of the people. Everywhere we hear that things have changed and that the ANC is now corrupt. Thus opposition parties are strong, with the DA (Democratic Alliance) being the one we are hearing about most. The issues are basic and core: high unemployment, corruption, and lack of services. Unemployment is about 26% they say. The corruption charges against the ANC are broad, including supposed funneling of about $20 million into renovating the current president’s home. Key will be voter turnout (mmmm sound like another election coming up?)

OK.. too tired to continue.. I will give you the take on Trump tomorrow.

Long day, not much sleep.. and several more intense days to follow.

Fern