12/24/2017. Geneva for Christmas 2017

December 24 2017

Happy Christmas Eve –

We left the Tirana Sheraton (typical Sheraton – big, decent rooms, removed from community but situated right at the end of the Boulevard, but only $95 per night for upgraded room) after a decent breakfast. Actually saw a young woman in the restaurant with a hijab – first one we’ve seen here in Albania, but she was a tourist. Taxied to Tirana Airport and navigated our way to the gate. Seems as if our “Fast Track” status from the US held for Adria Airlines so we were sent to a much shorter line. But then the fun began.

I think the Fast Track status just means a shorter line in Albania, not different kind of screening. So we had to take off all outerwear, even sweaters, put computers and electronics into separate bins (forgot all about those things that we used to have to do), etc. Naturally, they noticed something in my computer bag and so I was secondary screened. My boots also set off an alarm (although same boots I’ve worn on this trip for several other flights). So they found a cannister of powder in my toiletries, but it was too large and they thought it was a liquid. I explained (in my best Albanian!! – only kidding, they had some English), and eventually I got through. Then we found our way to the gate and waited. We thought we only had about 30 minutes until boarding time, but the plane was late and we kept waiting. Eventually, about 45 minutes after the official boarding time we were herded to a bus and taken to the plane.

The Adria Airlines plane was old and painted white – no branding whatsoever. Adria Airline is a Slovenian airline… Maybe they share the plane with other airlines and thus cannot put any recognizing graphics or brand on the actual plane? But inside also, no branding.. also no magazine from the airline or anything in the seat pockets. But, no complaints – plane took off (albeit an hour late) and landed safely in Frankfurt.

We were changing planes in Frankfurt and that airport is huuuge… We already figured that our chances of making the connecting flight were 50/50. Perhaps because Adria doesn’t have a lot of status, the plane taxied to a location that was a 20-minute bus ride from the plane to the terminal! Then, once in the terminal we had to go through German customs (passport check) and go through security again.. and this time I was pulled over for “random secondary screening for explosives!” At least that was quick. Then we had to walk (literally, per my fitbit program) 1.3 miles from that terminal to another terminal and to our gate. Anyone who travels knows Frankfurt airport is big… We kept looking at our watches and as we approached the gate there was five minutes left before take-off… we were panting.. and the two guys at the gate yelled out our names as they realized we were the two missing passengers.. We got on, breathless, and off we went. Then we had a few moments of panic realizing that it was highly likely that our bags (which they made us check) did not transfer..

But alas, we landed in Geneva, with bags in tow. …  and took a taxi to the little auberge in Carouge (where Elizabeth, Mike’s sister-in-law, lives, and where we would all spend Christmas with family). We already knew that the little Auberge would be locked as we and Julian’s family (Julian is Julia’s – Elizabeth’s daughter’s partner) would be the only guests at the auberge. So someone (Emma and Hem) had to come to meet us at the place with the keys.

Just enough time to settle in (sort of) and then take a taxi to meet everyone for dinner. Christmas Eve is very very big in Switzerland. Everyone is at someone’s home for a special dinner and the town shuts down (although you wouldn’t know that at the Geneva Airport or the Train Station which was bustling when we arrived and the train station is like a giant mall – all stores were open.) Because we were about 20 people and because Julia and Julian’s (they are now referred to as “the JuJu-s”) apartment is small and because Elizabeth was already hosting the Christmas dinner the next day, JuJu decided that we should all go to a restaurant (good idea!) .. I gather that only very few restaurants are actually open on Christmas Eve, but one is quite special and we were lucky to secure a reservation and a private room for our gang…  I’m still trying to get the names and relations straight, but I believe that in addition to Mike’s family (Elizabeth, Mike and Me, Emma and Hem, Julia and Julian.. and the just days-old baby Louis), Julian’s family included his mother Joelle, his brother and his brother’s 14-year-old daughter, his aunt and her husband, their son (cousin to Julian), Benjamin, his wife, and their three children (ages 18 months, 3 years, and 7 years)… or so I think.

Café du Centre on Place Mollard has been an institution since 1933. The menu is varied but they are famous for their fish. Our table (we had two long tables and the two sides of the family – Julia’s and Julian’s – gravitated to one or the other, perhaps because Julian’s family had four children at their table and we had none or perhaps because language would be easier…) Anyway, our table shared several orders of the special heaping raw fish platters (snails, clams, crayfish, jumbo shrimp, oysters, crab, etc.) and lots of wine.  Naturally the star attraction was the new baby – now 9-days old.

Louis was passed around a lot. To Hem, Emma’s husband – so the new uncle of Louis.. and then Mike, proud grand uncle (?) holding baby and to grandparents, Elizabeth and Joelle, and to cousins. Got that all?

OK.. after tons of raw fish and wine and amazing desserts, we took the tram back to the auberge where we had to unlock the front door and lock it behind us. The Auberge is sweet and we’ve stayed here before – but I think in the future we will opt for a hotel in the center of Geneva with more modern accommodations. Our room is like a fire trap because we need to have so many electronics charging… so we have extension cords all over the place. There are only two outlets in the whole room! Charm is nice, but only for so long. Anyway, in the morning or early afternoon we will head to Elizabeth’s for Christmas exchange of presents (with all of these people) and a leisurely dinner of capon.. I gather that the capons are being cooked by the two sons-in-law who are good cooks – Sort of a capon cook-off, I suppose.

Signing off –

Fern