Eindhoven. October 20 and 21, 2019

11:00 PM (local time)

Greetings from Eindhoven

It was a jam packed day.

But first a bit about our Michelin star dinner last night at Zarzo – a fairly unpretentious space in the central area of Eindhoven. It’s sort of Spanish fusion, a bit difficult to describe, except to say it was fantastic. We had the 5 course fixed meal (they had 6 and 7 course meals as well). But in addition there were several surprises that showed up at the table in addition to the selected meal. We started with an amazing chilled basil ad tomato “gazpacho” served in a wine goblet. We asked how they made it and I think they cut the tomatoes into quarters and spread them out and put salt on them and they stay overnight. Then they create an emulsion of basil which is pressed so much that it’s just a liquid to which they add Spanish extra virgin olive oil and then they add some of the tomato. I’m not planning to try it, but it was amazing. They then brought two or three other sample tastes (including a sour cherry with what I think was a pesto, small bites of raw mackerel with some kind of dipping sauce, a homemade wafer with a wasabi-like paste and herbs and dried mushrooms – each dish served on a plate or platter made special for that dish) before the actual meal began. Then we had veal tartare served along with some kind of amazing potato (I think) bread and some dipping ingredients. The veal tartare had caviar, crème fraiche and herbs.

I don’t remember all of the dishes and don’t want to make everyone’s mouth drool.. but there was a pigeon dish with pear, a garbanzo dish with herbs and raw egg and some kind of cream (or at least that’s what I think it was)… I know the photos don’t do it all justice.

Needless to say, after that meal and several glasses of wonderful Spanish wine, I was pretty beat. Hence I didn’t finish the posting last night.

After breakfast this morning, we headed (by car – with me driving and Carol navigating) to what is known as “Sectie C” or Section C – a section of town that has been populated by artists and makers for decades – occupying abandoned and/or no longer usable warehouses and industrial buildings on a fairly large tract of land surrounded by a cute neighborhood. The whole property was open because of Design Week and again most of the exhibits had to do with sustainability and ways to change Dutch practices for the better. One particularly fascinating project was the Wikkle House.

It’s a long story as to its origin and the making of the machine that actually fabricates the house, but it’s made of 12 layers of corrugated cardboard with a thin piece of wood separating each set of the six layers (for rigidity and also to enable the insertion of electrical tubes and other utility needs) and then covered with a plastic like (but definitely not plastic – they described it to us in English as “the raincoat”) and then another layer of wood. The units are modular and can be created using as few as two sections or as many as needed. We say one with five sections and one with just two.

We strolled all of Section C and then stopped in one of the studios for a simple wine and cheese lunch. One thing about Design Week – there are eateries everywhere – each with different ethnic foods and everything looked and smelled fantastic. We opted for the wine and cheese because it was in one of the few indoor areas. Most of the others are outdoors and it was getting pretty cold and windy.

Then we drove to the Van Abbemuseum which –keeping with the theme – had devoted about 2/3 of the museum to artists working on sustainability issues from a more global position. Driving is fine because no one here drives very fast, but the big challenge is making sure not to hit any cyclists. Fortunately they seem to totally follow the rules, the lights, and stay on bike paths which are everywhere and soften the streets. Bike paths are wide, go in both directions, and have their own lights. Anyway, the museum is about 85 years old and was totally renovated about 15 years ago, including the construction of a new building that wraps around the old one from the rear and the side – creating a rather large complex.  The museum sits on the River Dommel so it has an unusually natural setting, albeit within the heart of the city. I think they widened the river a bit and added some kind of “fish ladders” and created a bank along the river that abuts the museum. There’s a sort of “lake” feeling which is felt when you sit in the museum café (which can be reached by a little footbridge that brings you into the back side of the museum.  The façade of the new building is covered with a natural stone that came from Lapland.

What’s been good is that these artists are really becoming storytellers, accumulating a great deal of research and finding ways to convey important messages and to explain complex information graphically and through unique projects. As many of you know, despite my training in the arts and my long association with arts schools, I hate museums and only go on rare occasions. But this was worth it, and beyond that it did seem like everyday people were attending these events and the museum – so my concerns about rarified art for investors were eliminated. There was virtually nothing here that anyone could purchase and own – except perhaps the growing concern and need to act on important issues.

By now it was close to 6:00 pm, so we headed to the hotel to think about dinner (eating, eating, eating), but along the way we spied what looked like a really cute store which had a lot of vests and scarfs made of felt. How lucky that we found a parking spot right there in front of the shop. As it turned out it was really this woman’s apartment (first floor) and she makes wonderful vests and scarves. She’s probably in the high 70s/early 80s and has lived and worked from this flat for decades. Her story was interesting, The building was constructed in the 1930s as rental units and stretches an entire block. She was trained as an architect and had her office there (I believe living behind the office). But the city (about 10 years ago) decided to tear down that whole housing block because it is very close to the Philips Eindhoven Stadium where soccer is played. I suppose they felt they could sell the property to a developer. Anyway, she led the fight to preserve the building and just last year (maybe two years ago) they won the fight and everyone remained in place in the building they had called home.

She was feisty and interesting, although we also learned she had a stroke just two weeks earlier and was a bit concerned about her health situation. She was flustered when she couldn’t remember how to use her Apple Square to accept our credit cards. Yes we made a purchase, and no she no longer considers herself an architect, but her clothing is very constructivist and architectural.

After a very brief stop at the hotel we headed out to a restaurant called Flavor and Spice (Indonesian with a touch of Afghani!). We took a taxi so as not to get totally lost in the neighborhood where the restaurant sat. It was adorable. Only seats about 30 people. A couple – probably about 50 years old – own it and she is the one who figures out the menu and cooks quite a bit. Her husband is the co-owner and he tends bar. He’s Dutch and she’s Afghani (having emigrated about 25 years ago with her family, but then lived in several other places including India). I think her father was an Afghani diplomat way back when.

She’s a nutritionist by training and is very into maximizing food usage and eliminating waste. She purchases food daily at the market and figures out exactly what she needs even if it means running out of dishes. She professes to have hardly any waste – organic or otherwise. Food was great, including a really nice Dutch IPA.

That’s it for today.

Stay well.

I glanced at CNN tonight and was sorry I did! But you know I’m a news junky so…..

Best –

Fern