Trains, Trams, Buses, Boats, Feet, and More. 10/27/2019

Greetings from an exhausted American in Amsterdam

We started our day with a relaxing (although a bit rushed) breakfast at the hotel, and then headed to the train station (Amsterdam Central) to catch a train to Rotterdam where we would then supposedly find out how to get to Kinder Dijk – which is about 15 kilometers from Rotterdam. It is the site of a “community” of 19 windmills begun about 270 years ago and are now a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Many of us associate windmills with the Netherlands, and here at Kinder Dijk they blend seamlessly with the landscape – and are functional and performing an important role in the ecology of the region. Strolling the 800-acre site and wandering over small bridges and into marshlands and along paths that take visitors to the front steps of 250-year old windmills, following and crossing over the canals is transformative.

Construction of hydraulic works for agricultural drainage and settlement began here in the Middle Ages and has actually continued to the present day. Kinder Dijk is an example of the typical features associated with this kind of technology – dykes, reservoirs, pumping stations, administrative buildings and absolutely stunning and well-preserved windmills. It’s known that the Netherlands has had centuries-old challenges with rising waters and the collection of windmills at Kinder Dijk was constructed to address flooding. These windmills sit on a waterlogged plot of land surrounded by two rivers. The area has always been threatened by floods. So, to keep the water at bay, residents built a series of what we might call “earthworks” way back in the 13th century. These dykes, sluices, and canals channeled water away from homes and farms and protected the area for generations. But by the 18^th Century, this system needed to be updated and the set of windmills were constructed, beginning in 1740. They are extremely large and were designed to drain the wetlands. By harnessing the wind, the windmills transferred water from lower parts of Kinder Dijk into a higher basin that flowed into a nearby river. This created an expansive irrigation system that still exists today.

OK.. So it was worth what it took to get there.

We walked to the Amsterdam Central Station, bought one-way tickets to Rotterdam (we weren’t certain what route we’d take to get back to Amsterdam), and had a pleasant trip to this other, lesser-visited city. But after we came up to the Rotterdam Central Station, there wasn’t any information as to how to go the next 10 or so miles to Kinder Dijk. We had heard there was a waterbus from Rotterdam, but there isn’t any water close to the station. We also heard there was a bus, but there wasn’t any information. So we found our way to the info desk and were told we missed the waterbus and they only run every two hours. They guy was helpful and said we could take Tram 23 to Beverwaard and then there would be a bus that would get us to Kinder Dijk. The tram would leave from the station in 8 minutes (transportation here is amazingly efficient – 8 minutes means exactly 8 minutes). We literally went straight to the tram, without a stop at the ladies room.  We hopped on the tram without a ticket, but we were able to purchase it on the tram – credit card only (as it is everywhere here), and marveled at some of the architecture we could see out the window. Rotterdam (I don’t think I have ever been there before) is clearly a re-made city, following WWII, with lots of good architecture, interesting housing, clean roads, good transportation, and friendly people. We knew that we were supposed to get to our stop at (exactly 1:01). As the time approached, Carol said she thought we had seen the stop before – sure enough we had taken the wrong tram (21 instead of 23) and we had actually now come full circle. The staff person who rides the tram explained that we were on the 21 not the 23.. so she guided us to go a few more stops and then deboard and cross over and take #23; we had lost about 20 minutes.

Boarded the 23 and headed to the correct stop and then tried to find the bus (#489) being extra careful to get on the right bus. But there weren’t any busses in sight. Then we spotted what looked like a bus yard and figured our bus must be in there. We went through some gates (which we thought was strange) and then passed dozens of trams and went into an office, where we were told we were not supposed to be in that area at all. We left and then realized (or thought) we were totally locked in. We were in a tram yard – where all the trams begin or end their trips, come for repairs, etc. The whole setting was eerie. As we approached the automatic doors that open when a tram comes, we spotted a fence door and tried to open it, but it was locked. Fortunately, before we could freak out, a tram drove up and the gates opened. The tram driver stopped – amazed that we were standing there and asked what we were doing. We explained and he looked incredulous, but he opened the gate for us and we then went once again to find bus 489. We spotted a little bus shelter and sat and waited. The bus ride was about 25 minutes and wound through some lovely villages, canals, and farm areas.

Eventually (3 hours after we began the 1.5 hour journey), we arrived at Kinder Dijk to stroll and to stare in awe.

After about two hours, we realized we had to return,. When we bought our tickets for Kinder Dijk, we inquired about the return trip and were told the last waterbus to Rotterdam would be at 4:00 and that was way too early for us. We were then told we could take a very small ferry across some canals to catch a different waterbus and that ferry (the last one) would depart at 5:14. This seemed perfect. We got to the “dock” at about 5:10 when an actual waterbus pulled up, but it was going to Dordecht. The attendant told us this would be the last boat for the day and that if we didn’t take this one we had to go back by the bus/tram combo we had used to get to Kinder Dijk several hours before. Problem was – this waterbus was going to Dordrecht and we didn’t think there were any “direct” trains from Dordecht to Amsterdam.

We hopped on the waterbus and decided we’d figure it all out when we got to the Dordecht Station. The ride was smooth and quick – sort of like taking the ferry from Manhattan to Staten Island. Naturally the waterbus doesn’t arrive at a pier at the train station, so we called a taxi to get us to the station – about 7 minutes away. The sun had already set about 45 minutes before – Europe changed their clocks – moving back by an hour, midnight last night. We got to the train station only to be told by the clerk that the “fast” train to Amsterdam would leave in exactly one minute; she sold us a ticket (they are flexible and not assigned to particular trains), and then flat out told us we missed the train. The next one wouldn’t come for 30 minutes and it was not the direct express (meaning it would take about twice as long and stop many times).. So be it. We waited and eventually arrived back in Amsterdam at the Central Station at about 8 pm.

We had already decided, while on the train, to find a very simple place for dinner and to go directly from the train before heading to the hotel. We did a little research and decided to take a taxi from the station to Bird – a Thai restaurant, in Amsterdam’s Chinatown. It’s on a walking street with scores of small restaurants. We found it and there was a line of about 30+ people trying to get in. They do not take reservations. Tired, hungry and a bit surprised, Carol held our place in line and I headed out to scout the nearby places to find an alternative. About 8 minutes later – Carol texted to say to come back that the line had begun to move and it was going fast. I turned around and we made our way into Bird. It was perfect, and also quite charming. Great Thai food, two levels, friendly staff, and a good mixture of locals and foreigners.

Back at hotel. Sending this and heading to bed. Just heard on Al Jazeera that Trump said Al Baghdadi was “whimpering and crying, while running through a dead end tunnel, begging to be saved.” Oh, I have to get a new mindset ready as I head to the states in 36 hours.

Tomorrow will be my last missive on Netherlands.

See you stateside.

Fern