Khiva. January 10, 2020

Greetings from Khiva!

Following our very un-luxurious train ride from Bukhara (through the night), we arrived in Khiva yesterday (Thursday, January 9) at about 11 am and taxied to the hotel. After we settled in, showered (after that train ride), we decided to explore the city before it got dark.

It’s a small city of about 90,000 people located on the western edge (toward the north) of the country… actually right on the border with Turkmenistan. There are really two parts to the city – an “outer town” that is known as Dichan Kala, and an “inner city” called Itchan Kala which is surrounded by ancient fortress walls made of brick, mud, straw, rammed earth… They say the foundations for these walls were laid in the 10^th Century. Parts of the wall were redone in the late 1600s and are about 30 feet tall. There are literally scores of “towers” and minarets within the Itchan Kala (which is where we are staying and there is a very tall one that we can almost touch from our window). There is also a very large tower (far more squat than all the others which have a graceful and elegant base and rise to the top), called Kalta Minor – it’s a large blue tower very centrally located. Apparently it was supposed to be a minaret (probably intended to be taller than most of the others, as one can judge from the width of the base. But the Khan who had “commissioned” it died well before it was completed and the next Khan decided to leave it be…

There are about 300 families who live in mostly mud and dry bale type houses throughout the inner part of the city, within the Itchan Kala. One of the most fascinating buildings we encountered in our walk yesterday was the Dhjuma Mosque from the 10^th Century (and rebuilt in the 1700s… using 112 columns that were retained from the original structure. All over these ancient cities and towns there is construction and reconstruction going on as efforts are made to shore up existing ancient structures and everywhere you can see settling of the structures with many leaning or bowing. Remember, no rebar or steel in the construction. The techniques to do this are interesting.

As we strolled we encountered two weddings.. The bride and groom and their entourages seem to take a ceremonial walk through the old city with photographers and family surrounding them. The brides wear totally extravagant full length, white puffy dresses with lots of layers and probably hoops under the skirts. Dresses are modest with high necks and full-length coverings on the arms… The brides are very made up with hair piled high on their heads. Anyway, I chased the two brides to get a few photographs which was not easy. Maybe I’ll see more tomorrow. As they leave the gates of the old city, the bride (maybe with her mother?) gets into a car and drives off – perhaps for a big lunch.

We had had lunch at our hotel, and thus decided quickly not to have dinner there… So, we asked the front desk guy who speaks some English to suggest restaurants. He said many would be closed due to the weather and winter season. But he told us that the “Terrace Restaurant” was open. We trekked in the totally dark “streets” that were very difficult to navigate given the uneven stones, unpaved, mostly dirt that was not level…. Took us about 10 minutes to do the supposed 4-minute walk. Naturally when we got there, the restaurant was closed. So we meandered back to the hotel to have dinner which was not too good. I had the famous Khiva green (dill) noodles which was edible.. Mike had some kind of beef which he likened to shoe leather with limp French fries. So much for that meal.

Anyway, during the night my foot really began to hurt. I must have moved in a funny way that pulled the ankle. The hotel couldn’t make ice for me last night.. I think they forgot and then when I asked for it, the water had not frozen. So it was a tough night, with lots of consideration given to skipping Baku and heading straight home Saturday.. or possibly getting off plane in Istanbul (where we would need to change planes for Baku) and spending a night or two and then getting flight to SFO on Monday, cutting the trip short. The stop in Istanbul would make the flight a little less strenuous. But as morning came and I got up and navigated the stairs down for breakfast.. I decided that I could ice my foot and stay in the room for a few hours while Mike explored… and then I’d be ready to go. So right now the plan is to stick with the original program. I’m just about ready to explore more of Khiva now.

Based on the above… the photos attached that show the wall and the path along the top of the wall of the city are from Mike. Frankly, even with two well-functioning feet, I’m not sure I would have ventured the path along the top that is pretty narrow and without any rail… I have a slight fear of heights. I might have done it, but been uncomfortable.

Cheers.. More later.

Fern