9. Bologna… The City of Arcades. April 19 2023

Ciao from Bologna – 

Following last night’s fantastic meal at Ahime we strolled back to the hotel through Via Independenzia which is arcaded for as far as you can see. I do remember walking these streets some years ago and while the structures are the same, the proliferation of international chain stores – has truly changed the nature of the city (in my humble opinion). And the amount of graffiti, while sometimes quite artistic and political, is also a newer phenomenon – more graffiti-like and less mural-like than in other cities we’ve visited.

What I forgot to mention yesterday, is that I’ve come down with laryngitis and really can’t talk. I’ve been to about three farmacias and have lots of over-the-counter medicines and I’m having hot water with lemon and honey as well. I’m hoping for a miraculous cure by tomorrow. In the meantime, I can only whisper.

We began our day today, like probably every other foreigner who comes to Bologna, by walking to Piazza Maggiore which is really the heart of the city and the result of centuries of transformations that added important buildings around the perimeter, including the Basilica of San Petronio, the Palazzo dei Notai, the Palazzo d’Accursio, the Palazzo del Podestà and the Palazzo dei Banchi. The square itself dates back to the 13^th Century, when different functions were brought to this central place. It’s roughly 200’ x 380’ which is about twice the width of a football field and half again as long. The piazza was (and I suppose is every day) filled with school kids on class trips, everyday Bolognans criss-crossing to get to work or home, and tourists. It’s got a real vibe, with cafes lining the fronts of all buildings, except the churches. 

From there we walked down Via Rizzoli which is filled with food stalls and markets and restaurants, and then we left that immediate center and walked to the old ghetto where the streets are even narrower than in the other parts of town. Stopped briefly at a tiny museum devoted to the history of Jews in Bologna. Clearly off the beaten path as most of the exhibits were only in Italian and it was pretty thin in content. Then we stopped briefly at a little coffee shop called Camera A Sud (meaning South Room) for my now ritual hot water with honey and lemon. Really cute café with mostly outdoor seating. 

Then we strolled to the Teatro Anatomica which is housed in Palazzo dell’Archiginnasio which is home to an amazing library. The Teatro is from the 17^th Century and is the room where public body dissections took place. According to the literature, these dissections were done with an Inquisition priest watching and ready to intervene “if proceedings became too spiritually compromising” — whatever that means. There are wood tiered seats around the room that surround a marble topped table, where the body used for the demonstration, was laid. Above the table there is a sculpted Apollo looking down from the ceiling. Also, the lecturer’s station at the front of the room has a wood canopy that is held up by two skinless, wood-carved figures. Boy, those were the days!!!

Then we took a leisurely stroll back to the hotel to relax on the 4^th floor deck that is part of our room. We tried to make reservations at several restaurants for dinner and all were booked. Hard to be spontaneous these days when traveling. So we are headed to something called Colombine Alley (or Viccolo). Hope it’s good.

Will fill you in tomorrow, from Padua… 

Best -Fern