2. Cairo, Egypt. December 17 2022

‘ahlan (أهلا) – or Helo — Apologies for the length. As always, feel free to delete.

Note photo of front desk guy at hotel, trying to get a signal for the credit card payment machine —by holding the entry door open.

Began our first real day in Cairo with breakfast on the roof of our hotel (apparently, we booked for two days of breakfasts here at the hotel (?), and no breakfasts for the remaining five days; there were three choices: continental (boring); Egyptian country breakfast; and Egyptian breakfast. We both opted for the country breakfast which our waiter (with minimal English) recommended with a big smile. It consisted of about 5 different “spreads:” labneh, a sweet cheese mixed with cranberries (very yummy), hummus (naturally), a sweet sour cream, molasses, and tahini. Along with this came several flaky flat pastry “breads” (to die for) for the spreads, two semi-hard-boiled eggs that must have been deep fried for a quick second and dipped into bread crumbs before the dipping—very tasty. And of course, fresh mint tea—just fresh mint leaves and boiling water. 

The restaurant was packed, but we were the only foreigners. There was one large table occupied by women; no men. Mike suspects it’s a women’s group making plans to change social norms. If so, they’ve got a long way to go! One funny thing about the table of Muslim women was that they were all talking at once and in heated discussions with what looked like multiple conversations at the same time. I could close my eyes and absent the hijabs it could be my family or any Jewish family dinner (at least those who grew up in working class Brooklyn).

Then we began our day-long journey. We walked through scores of the tiny streets and alleys of our “neighborhood” –- some barely passable— with pedestrians, motorcycles, cars, delivery vehicles, etc. Much of the goods is delivered by young guys on bicycles carrying every imaginable product on their heads (not unlike what we’ve seen in many parts of Southeast Asia).

Aside from the amazing smells and visuals, wherever you stroll (and stroll we did to the tune of nearly 13,000 steps today – too bad we’re eating such rich foods I don’t think the walking is having any impact), the real sensual stimulation are the sounds which go well into the wee hours of the night. I think the music in the streets ended at about 2:30 am… just in time to prepare for the call to prayer from the mosques which starts at about 5 a.m.! More than that, some kind of Egyptian pop music is constantly blaring from the little shops and pushcart-style shopping places that line the street. Everyone, and I mean everyone—from kids to parents, to shopkeepers, to school kids, to passersby are on cell phones—women in burkas to teenagers wearing rip-off American jeans and tee-shirts—everyone is on their phone—talking (loudly), or texting, or maybe playing Wordle (in Arabic?). And when they are not on their phones, they are yelling across the way to a shopkeeper in another “store.” Some of the shops are barely 80 square feet. So, the sounds are mesmerizing… and then there is the shuffling of feet that are in slipper style shoes, and the engines of the cars and motorcycles. And people singing in the street!

Walking along those little shops that line the streets and merge into the Khan Khalili souk and Bazaar and the shops that stay open til around midnight, was also a bit of a comparison to my youth where my grandfather had a tiny men’s clothing store in Brooklyn. He loathed the fact that night-time television took customers away and he had to start closing up at around 8 pm, and in later years even earlier.

This Khan Kalili market has been the center of trade in Cairo since the 13^th Century. It was originally just one building but now refers to the whole area of streets and the maze within the bazaar. They say it is the oldest open-air market in the Middle East. After zigzagging throughout the area, we wound up at Naquib Mahfouz Café which is located near one of the gates to the bazaar. It was recommended by the young receptionist at the hotel. It’s a Moorish building with all sorts of nooks and crannies. We were still full from breakfast so we opted for just the mezze platter to share—more than enough and actually quite good. Oh – one funny thing. Sitting in a little corner of the restaurant, cross-legged on the floor, was a guy shining shoes. No sooner did we sit down at our table, when he sprung into action trying to get to shine my shoes. As I glanced around, I was probably the only one not wearing sneakers, so I was an obvious hit. He told me it would cost (the equivalent of) $8; I agreed and he brought over a little rug for me to put my feet on, while he shined my shoes and while we ate. The cost was about the same as lunch. But I figure the guy needs the money and it was an easy way to “spread the wealth.” Seemed as if he left right after doing my shoes (boots), so maybe he earned his daily quota with that one sale. Funny thing about how there is no market for shoe shiners anymore, any where. Used to be an old guy at the Oakland Airport who had regular customers; he’s been long gone ever since everyone flying is wearing some kind of sneaker (or flip flops).

Then we walked more and put our lives in our hands as large tourist buses barreled down many of these very narrow streets with people eating in cafes lining each side of every street. The buses had less than 6” clearance and at one point I was sort of sandwiched between the moving bus and a barricade when someone came and moved the barricade a bit for me to have some breathing room. I guess some tourists “visit” the market from a bus window.

Later in the evening, we decided to venture to an upscale restaurant situated inside the Four Seasons Hotel located on the Nile. We walked to the outer gates of the Gamaliya (where our hotel is) to get a taxi to the Four Seasons. The desk clerk at the hotel said if we got to the gate, we’d find lots of taxis. (He was surprised we didn’t use Uber.) Tried to explain the politics, but then just figured we’d walk to the gate (about 15 minutes). We were prompted to leave the old city for dinner, despite having a really good meal last night, because alcohol of all sorts, including wine, is banned from all but a few parts of Cairo. Naturally, you can get alcohol in these upscale hotels that cater to tourists. We got into a pretty beat up taxi with a nice driver who spoke no English. As we approached the hotel, dogs had to check out the car and guards asked a few questions before they allowed us and the taxi entrance to the hotel grounds. I had forgotten but this same thing happened when we were traveling in Kenya and in Tanzania. Rather insulting and humbling for the driver. They weren’t too interested in us, although when we did get inside the hotel, one of the many doormen literally escorted us into the restaurant. Fortunately, he didn’t pick us up when we were finished eating so we were able to peek around the 5-star digs.

The restaurant, Zitouni, was billed as serving North African food. It was all good, but hardly “spectacular” and of course about four times the price of restaurants in the Gamaliya. But, then again, we did have cocktails and wine! When we exited the hotel, we asked one of the doormen to please get us a taxi (again the Uber conversation), and he proceeded to call for a taxi. We waited a few minutes and a spanking new, very clean white taxi arrived, Since the process is to ask the price of the fare, we did that. (It cost us 70 EP/about $3, to get to the Four Seasons, although we gave a tip equal to an additional 50%.) This guy said “200 pounds” or about $8.50 for the exact same ride. We told the driver we just paid 70 pounds for the same ride and offered 100, but he drove off. He also said he had no idea where our hotel is located. The Four Seasons guy said he’d have to “go onto the streets” to get a “regular city taxi” for us, rather than the “hotel taxi,” and he did. Up drove a beat-up old taxi and we headed to the Riad. We tipped the guy well and he was most grateful for the work. He dropped us at the gate; it was about midnight; and we strolled the now somewhat quieter (and some even deserted) streets of the Gamalya area. Some persistent shopkeepers were still holding court; restaurants and cafes were brimming with locals; and music was playing (loudly) as we neared our hotel (which is often guarded by our own little sphynx – a sleeping cat.

So, we saw the two Cairos. The one where people live and work and serve the others who probably drive folks to the Four Seasons and the one where Egyptians appear to only be the servers, cleaners, and doormen who cater to foreigners (mostly wealthy Arabs it seemed) with lots of money. The Old Cairo and the New Cairo, as the literature around here describes the centuries-old areas with incredible architecture that is in bad need of repair and the upscale neighborhoods filled with new, shiny buildings and modern conveniences.

As-Salamu alaikum (Peace be with you); more tomorrow.

PS – funny sign in our rather large and very modern bathroom at our hotel; guess the plumbing isn’t quite up to par.