October 18, 2025 . Americans in Uruguay . Day Three .

Lat night’s dinner at Quinquela showed us a side of the upscale Uruguay and where wealthy Montevideans (and visiting Argentinians) eat. Quinquela was quite good, although I think we should have ordered a different main course. We started with a shrimp crudo topped with caviar and some sea foam. We then shared a small pappardelle that had roasted shrimp sitting on top with some kind of spicy chestnuts and chopped carmelized nuts. It was great. Then we shared the short rib dish which was good, but not fantastic, although the waitress raved about it and said it was the signature dish. We ended with a simple flan which was quite yummy. The other desserts were just too over the top. The waitress then gave us a tour of the restaurant and some private spaces decorated with Uruguayan art. Apparently the owner is Argentinian and has big plans for not just this restaurant but another one that he is planning to open across the street.

Now…. it’s about 6:15 pm and we are on the coast (a short overnight trip with Peter and Jairo).. Greetings from Bahia Vik in Jose Ignacio on the Atlantic coast of Uruguay (more on that soon). I have about 30 minutes before we meet up with the guys so I thought I’d get a head start on today’s meanderings. Peter and Jairo are staying at another place about 5 minutes from us, but we opted for a bit more luxury.

We left Montevideo at about 9 am with Peter driving in his Citroen. We set out for their cabin which is located in the “hilly” part of Uruguay, about two+ hours from Montevideo. Since the country is very flat, calling the area “hilly’ or “mountainous” is a bit of a stretch. It’s probably about 700′ above sea level. “Lower than the Berkeley hills” Peter said, comparing it to where he grew up. We took a pretty roundabout route so that Peter could show us several small towns and parts of his adopted country that he wanted to share. Eventually we arrived at the cabin which they use for weekends and also rent out from time to time. It’s quite charming and Peter worked really hard to encourage the architect to model it on some of the (vastly larger) ski houses his father designed throughout Tahoe. The house boasts a set of original drawings by Mike, which Peter framed and proudly displays on the bedroom wall! The drawings (simple line drawings) depict a series of changes that occur in a town–starting with a forest and then someone takes down trees and builds a gas station and some other facilities and soon a city emerges and the forest is gone; the little general store remains and in each section the protest signs change.. the city eventually disappears as a result of climate change and finally nature takes over and the growth covers the town. The little general store from the onset remains throughout and the last sign on the building is “Eco Resort!”

From the cabin we went to a sweet simple restaurant for lunch, and then we drove through numerous little towns and villages as we meandered our way to the ocean.

Then we headed to the Atchugarry Museum of Contemporary Art which is the largest museum in the country. It’s located in the resort town of Punta del Este. It’s a huge complex with sprawling outdoor spaces surrounding a giant exhibit building with a permanent collection (donated by the Uruguayan artist , Atchugarry for whom the museum is named). It’s my understanding that Atchugarry also put up the majority of the funds for the entire project. The museum is both a showcase of his work and the work of other Uruguayan artists, but it also has works by artists throughout Latin America and a small collection that includes contemporary art from around the world.

From the museum we headed to the town of Jose Ignacio—a fishing village turned into a resort area that is attracting wealthy visitors and even celebrities to its beaches, surfing, and yoga. After settling into our huge room with huge bathroom, we met Peter and Jairo and headed to Parador Huella for dinner,… after a quick spin to the “round bridge” designed by Rafael Vinoly. At the restaurant, Mike decided that it would be good to order a hot toddy (hot water, scotch, and honey—to help ease his lingering sore throat. He ordered one yesterday at Cafe Brasilero — agua caliente con “scotch” con miel— it was great and cost $5.00. Somehow here they asked what kind of scotch and theyt suggested Johnie Walker “azul” and Mike said “fine.” When we got the bill his simple hot toddy was $100. I guess Johnnie Walker Blue is a pretty special brand. And then we ate and I’m now back at the hotel….totally beat.

One thing I keep forgetting to mention—-all across Uruguay, you hear 1970s and 1980s Americn music… sometimes the 60s. It’s sort of funny, and makes you feel like you’ve been here before!

More tomorrow. Hasta Luega.