Feliz Navidad: December 25, 2025 – Oaxaca

After a leisurely breakfast at Pug Seal, we headed out to explore more of Oaxaca– especially the Christmas markets that line the area near Santo Domingo Church–about a 25-minute walk from our hotel. These are pop-up markets that are open from mid December until early January and are open daily (including today, Christmas Day) until 10:30 pm each night. There are also a lot of permanent small shops along the way—with varying degrees of quality.

We headed inside Santo Domingo Church, a very Baroque structure that would probably make Trump totally jealous, what with all the gold and glitz. The building dates back to the 1500s when it was established as a convent for the Dominican order. It’s been the site of several different functions and important Mexican events, including a military warehouse and a stable. It was closed to Catholic worship for some decades and later returned to the Church. In 1979, Pope John Paul II visited the church and soon after it was declared a World Heritage Site, along with the entire historic center of Oaxaca.

 So since Baroque is not my thing, I ventured into the former courtyard of the old convent which was simple and very interesting architecturally. I also went upstairs where there are great views of desert landscape and also of the city of Oaxaca. By then I was done with religious structures. I can only take so much in any one trip.

We headed back to the hotel for a short while and then went out again. Oaxaca is among the most photogenic places I know, so apologies if there are too many photos. What you are seeing is probably 2% of what I’ve shot. While strolling in one shop, I heard someone call my name. Lo and behold a friend from Berkeley was here for Christmas also. It is indeed a very very small world–or so it seems at times.

We headed to dinner at Las Quince Letras, a family-owned and family-oriented restaurant about a 15-minute walk from our hotel. Letras is all about mole! The restaurant is about 35 years old and is basically outside, but is partially covered. After margaritas, we opted for a starter of pasilla chiles stuffed with fruity meat and served with fruit sauce and plantains. We followed this with the order of mixed Oaxacan moles–a trio of black, red, and yellow moles, each with a different meat (chicken, beef, pork) alongside rice. Quince Letras is definitely a family place and being Christmas there were big tables with multiple generations enjoying the holiday. Food was quite good and it was definitely a laid back place, especially when compared to Nois last night. We ended the dinner with flan and walked back to the hotel at about 10:30… amid all the corner food stalls lined with people and the craft stores still open. The town is as lively as it can be.

Best –

Fern