Fern in Helsinki: Paiva Numero Kolme (Day 3) October 23, 2013

Hei Hei –

Woke up to a very dreary day.. cold, sort of damp, and absolutely no sun.. so it seemed like it was dusk all day.. I think I understand even more now than before the purpose of Marimekko and how it combats the bad months (November and December are really the worst times of year because there’s not much sun and the snow hasn’t come yet.. Once the snow comes, it can be pretty magical)

So, not sure where I left off, but I think I explained that I walked to where we lived when we were in Finland so many years ago. The area has gentrified, but not our street and definitely not our building. Lots of memories.

The neighborhood is now considered the “arts district” — I guess we were ahead of our time. Several galleries and crafts places, but also struggling a bit. The little bread shop (leipa kauppa) that was on the street is gone, as is the bar where the local drunks used to hang out (I said it was the seedy part of town in those days). Then took a leisurely stroll (Did I mention that it’s cold? It was about 30 yesterday; today it’s a bit warmer) back to the center (keskus). And then I was to meet other old friends for lunch and catch up with Anne and Tapani in the evening.

Many of the little shops have disappeared.. there used to be a little flower stand (kukka kauppa) or shop on nearly every corner — all through the year. The Finns always bring fresh flowers when they visit and everyone has fresh flowers in vases at their home.. all the time. So now you have to go into supermarkets and other shops to get the flowers (which I faithfully did before I headed to Anne’s the day before). And there were also tons of newsstands (sort of like Manhattan) where I could be sure I’d get the International Tribune. Now there seem to be fewer of those stands and I wound up getting the paper at the train station.

I met up with two other friends — Antti and Heidi (Antti is a very well-known interior architect responsible for — among other things, the design of the president’s official home and office, the opera house, and many town halls; Heidi is a physical therapist by training and has held a number of public health positions) — and we had a chance to talk politics (US, world, and of course Finland) and to catch up on personal lives. I was last in Finland four years ago… and somehow although we are good friends there isn’t much communication between trips. Still, once in Finland, it’s as if we were just talking the day before.

Our lunch lasted about four hours.. with a good deal of wine and also some special starting drink that Heidi said was very very healthy and loaded with Vitamin C.. made from buckthorn berries (??)

From there, I headed to meet up with Anne and Tapani at an art gallery where there was to be a retrospective of an artist – Matti Koskela – who is now 80 year old – who I met when I lived in Helsinki. Matti was shocked to see me after all these years and immediately proclaimed that the event was international and that I had come for the event. Following the reception, I had dinner at Boulevard Social… the sister restaurant to Ganjin where I had eaten the night before… this one was a Mediterranean theme, and I began with a tsatziki martini! The meal was great and afterwards I walked back to the hotel again..

Today, (not having any plans until afternoon) I did some work and then walked to some other neighborhoods.. but the weather was so bad you couldn’t take any photos and it felt like it would rain any minute… Then I heard that there was a big special annual Marimekko sale at their outlet store in Hertiniemi (about 10 miles from the center)… so given the weather and the few free hours, I decided to head out there. Took the tram and then walked about a half mile to a warehouse type space.. a building amid lots of industrial buildings — but recognizable with all the bright red Marimekko branding, including big picnic umbrellas (naturally with Marimekko patterns). OK.. I entered.. it was a mad house by Finnish standards, but definitely polite and low key by American/NY standards. There were a lot of good things available at great prices, things like winter coats (which I would have loved to have purchased) but when I thought about lugging these things on the plane I opted for a few very small, light items. Headed back to catch up with Antii and Heidi again — this time at their flat.

After some afternoon champagne and discussions about the Finnish economy (which is apparently not in great shape) and public education (they only have public schools, no private schools) and Obamacare (which is of great interest to Heidi who was a member of the Finnish General Assembly on Health) and why Americans don’t want to support Obamacare, and other miscellaneous topics.. I got to see their two adorable grandchildren – 2-1/2 year old twins who are totally infatuated with Angry Birds… Unknown to me, Angry Birds is a Finnish company. So there are Angry bird stuffed animals and Angry Bird candy and Angry Bird parks… Learn something every day.

From their flat, I walked downtown (in the rain) where I met Anne and Tapani for the final dinner. More political conversation about US, Russia, Finland. We ate at Kosmo, a nearly-century-old restaurant that was once a favorite of artists and writers and lefties. On May Day, all Finns eat out. When we lived in Helsinki we went to Kosmo for dinner with friends on May Day.. Everyone was Finnish in the restaurant except us.. and our table was speaking English.. And, given that this was during the Vietnam War, some young guy came up to us over lunch and asked “Why are you killing little yellow people?” He was a bit drunk, and although a Finn, his English was perfect American English. We responded that we were not killing anyone; we were having dinner.

OK.. so it’s an old restaurant with lots of tradition, but the menu has been updated and prices match all the other high end restaurants.

I walked back to the hotel.. It’s now nearly midnight. I’m packing and heading back.

Tomorrow morning, just before I head to the airport, I’m meeting with a Finn who has written a book about urban branding… He’s on the faculty of one of the newer colleges. We meet at a café at the railroad station, and then I will check out of the hotel and catch a taksi to the airport..

See you stateside.

Terve Terve

Fern