January 1, 2014 — Day one of the New Year: Kathmandu and Bhaktapur

January 1, 2014. Last day in Nepal; tomorrow onwards to Delhi

Namaste –

Went to Dwarika’s New Year’s dinner. They totally decked out the grounds of the hotel and the restaurant with thousands of little candles edging every conceivable nook and cranny on the grounds, making it a bit of a wonderland. From our room (before we left for dinner) we could see them creating the phrase “Happy New Year 2014” — in candles on the brick paving. Dinner was fine — as usual for New Year’s — not spectacular.* Finished around 11 pm and we opted not to go to the party being held at the bar and not go to the champagne countdown at the pool. Instead — Stayed up to watch the clock turn to midnight in many countries…

This morning, we decided to leave central Kathmandu for the day, and head about 15 miles east to a town called Bhaktapur (a somewhat random selection after looking at the map and the Internet and realizing that it was a medieval Newari town) that had an interesting temple — but more important it looked like a very interesting village — probably what Kathmandu looked like just 25 to 50 years ago.

The drive was once again filled with bumper to bumper traffic and cars within inches of motorcycles and bicycles, no traffic lights (they literally do not have more than about four in the whole city and those are not connected), dusty roads and lots of potholes and incomplete parts of the road. As I said before everything is in a state of either being built or being demolished.

We arrived at Bhaktapur around 11:45 and walked into the main square where the Nayatapola temple sits — a grand 5-story pagoda, constructed around 1701 (supposedly in a 5-month period). It’s a really beautifully sculptured building and one of the tallest pagodas in Nepal. The workmanship is a good example of Newari architecture. It’s five stories with tiered roofs.. You can walk up a flight of stairs to the top..

Bhaktapur means “city of devotees.” This ancient, 15th century medieval city is part of the UNESCO World Heritage sites, which records buildings that are of cultural and natural value universally. Bhaktapur is well preserved. In addition to the square with the Temple, there are several other major squares – also with temples. Some say that the finest religious architecture in the country is here in Bhaktapur.

We wandered alone (and once we left the main square, where there were lots of tourists — Japanese, Chinese, Australians) away from the temple-center — down narrow cobblestone streets that meandered between red-brick houses, and courtyards that have temples, statues, cisterns, and wells. Frankly, you could spend days in Bhaktapur. The further we got from the temple, the more we saw typical life: women washing clothes on the streets in big rubber bowls, kids playing soccer, people at work making furniture and drying foods. Some of the buildings are just 12′ wide. Artisans weave cloth, knit gloves, chisel timber, and build furniture by the roadside, and locals seem to gather in communal courtyards to bathe, collect water, and socialize. There was a bit of begging near the temple, but once we moved outside that area no one approached us.

We stayed in Bhaktapur far longer than we expected — returning to the hotel at around 5 pm (after a very brief stop at the Garden of Dreams which is adjacent to the Thamel area). The Garden of Dreams is a neo-classical garden located right in the middle of Kathmandu. It was created in 1920 and was probably one of the most sophisticated private gardens at that time. It’s filled with pavilions and verandas and birdhouses. Once we got back we headed to the spa for massages — Mike got the “trekkers massage” (??) and I got the Nepalese foot massage with reflexology. The treatments made us extremely peaceful and also tired.. But about an hour or so after the massages, we headed for our last meal in Nepal — a traditional six-course series of little dishes. Sat on the floor, making it very difficult to get up after eating.

So, as we pack to leave Nepal for Delhi, there’s a lot to think about — especially comparisons between Kathmandu and Lhasa, with one having centralized control which also enables it to progress, to build an infrastructure, to create order.. and the other a big free-for-all and no way to even conceive of addressing things like systematic electrical connections, water, sewage, physical planning. Hard to know and so much more to consider that cannot be understood in such a short visit.

So, amid the many ganeshes and buddhas and other spiritual trappings and decorations – we bid farewell to Kathmandu (we leave the hotel around 12:30 pm for a 3:40 pm flight, and arrive in Delhi at about 5:00. Gotta finish packing. By the way, we’ve been on the phone with United Airlines several times and will try to deal with things when we get to Delhi. We are trying desperately to leave India one day early. We both have to fly to Seattle the day after we get to SF.. and we would just love to have that extra day. But alas, United is saying this will cost $2,000 each to make the change! So much for flying more than 100,000 miles with them each year.

Take care. Wishing you a very happy, healthy, peaceful new year. All my best – Fern

* For the foodies who want the details: Started with drinks and a roast duck appetizer (Mike had the mushroom dish – goat cheese stuffed shitakes with fruit salsa and homemade pesto), followed by a beetroot salad with edamame and avocado. Then came vichyssoise and the palette cleanser (a green vegetable granita). For the main course we both chose the rack of lamb (they use different cuts of meat). I think the lamb was cooked with pistachios and coriander.. came with vegetables. For dessert they served an apple crumble. OK… that was dinner.