9/8/26: From Amana Colonies to Ames to Des Moines

We headed to a local cafe for breakfast, but it was closed. We tried another one only to find that nothing was prepared fresh.. all packaged and pre-cooked. We tried another one and a few more mishaps. Finally we drove back to the hotel where we had eggs and toast. Prices here are unbelievably low. Scrambled egg, hash browns, and toast costs $7.00. Then we drifted around the town which is like a picture postcard and we headed to Ames, home of Iowa State University to see the Grant Wood murals at the library. Along the drive we stumbled on (or saw signs for) quaint little towns including Norway, Madrid, Marengo, and Brooklyn.

Within Parks Library at Iowa State there is a series of Grant Wood murals designed specifically for the original campus library, through the WPA. The paintings were executed with the help of local Iowan painters, chosen by Wood from paintings he saw at an exhibit at the Iowa State Fair. The series depicts workers in particular fields .. notably all men, except for the panel on Home Economics which features women. The library has since been expanded and modernized so these murals are a bit buried into the older section. They represent a regional style of painting rather than the European movements of the time. and are uniquely American — honoring the value of work and the Midwest at a time when the US was in the midst of the Great Depression. Bringing art to a public space without the velvet ropes of museums enabled everyday people to see his work. They are not as vibrant, complex, or powerful as Diego Rivera’s murals but they reflect a respect for work and the common man. Unlike Rivera, Wood’s murals are nostalgic and folksy. Rivera’s work is political, radical, and promote social revolution. His work is epic.

Then we searched for some place to have lunch, among very very limited options. We finally found ourselves at Dough and Sauce–a local pizza joint.

And then we were off to Des Moines, where Carol has planned some pretty special activities for us over an intense two-day visit. It took about two hours to get from Amana to Ames and then about 40 minutes to get from Ames to Des Moines. It was overcast, hot, and muggy. I drove for the first 45 minutes or maybe an hour and then Carol took over. After all, it’s her home turf.

FROM GRANT WOOD TO WOOD WORKING. Before heading to our hotel, we made a stop to meet and visit with Carol’s younger brother who had worked in an engineering position at John Deere for his entire career. He built his house which sits on two (?) acres. He’s developed a second career using his passion for wood and craft, so the garage, shed, and addition to the property has been turned into a woodworking space, a lumber yard, and more. He mills logs, planes the wood, kiln dries the planks to a very exacting temperature and ensures that the wood is free of any larva or moisture where growth can occur… then flattens the wood planks and then makes things with the wood. Some of it is commissioned by customers and some are just his own ideas for practical thIngs that can be made of beautiful wood, like cutting boards, levels, picture frames, rulers, and more.

After getting a very informative tour and insight into the workings of wood and admiring many of Tom’s work, we headed to the hotel, Hotel Fort Des Moines to check in and head for dinner at Carol’s other brother’s house which is clear across the other side of Des Moines. The weather was looking more and more bleak, and as we drove we were suddenly in an absolute deluge with lighning and thunder and even hail. It was impossible to see out the window and for a time we pulled over to “wait it out.” We thought there was a break and decided to drive on… which we did… very slowly. It was really blinding. Eventually we made it to Jim and Linda’s where the outdoor barbecue was brought inside. Linda raises horses on their 14 acres but it was way too wet to head to the stables. It was great to spend an evening with die-hard Iowans who are active and engaged in local, statewide, and national issues. So we heard a lot about efforts to turn Iowa blue.

And we learned that Linda can trace her ancestry back to the 1600s. I was amazed. I can barely tell you anything further back than my grandparents, and even there I don’t have a lot of details. She has books and documents and her history includes some incredible stories. Her history includes the fact that she is a direct descendent of Elizabeth Key (Grinstead) who was born in 1632. Key’s mother was an indentured African woman and her father was Thomas Key, an English planter and member of the Virginia House of Burgesses. Key was charged with fathering the mixed-race Elizabeth. Initially he denied this, but eventually accepted his parenthood. He arranged for her baptism and supported her financially. At some point (maybe he went back to England?) he placed Elizabeth into indenture for a nine-year period. Upon reaching the age of 15 she was to be free. But that did not happen.

Years later, she sued and her lawsuit was one of the earliest “freedom suits” by an African-descended person in the English colonies. Soon after she won her suit, the Virginia House of Burgesses passed a law that would prevent other indentured servants from suing for freedom. They established that the social status of children would follow the social status of the mother, not the father. This was different from British law that stated that a child’s status was based on the father not the mother.

Much of this story is documented in several research papers and also included in a book by Ibram Kendi, “Four Hundred Souls.” I was fascinated by Linda’s history and the fact that there is so much documented information. So, it was a good dinner with great conversation… and a good night with Iowans.

We thought we were leaving during a break in the storm.. but no luck. Grateful we made it back to the hotel in one piece.. wet, but here.

Tomorrow we explore Des Moines.