Vidolashuv O’zbekiston — Farewell Uzbekistan…Until next time…

While the prediction was for slightly warmer weather today (low 40s), it seemed colder than the other days because it was overcast and with some wind.

We decided to head for the big bazaar (market) which we thought was just outside the east gates of the Ichan Kala… but apparently the market was moved recently and split into two parts, although no one could explain if the parts were different. What the hotel said was that now there is a big market and one that is a little bit smaller (?) We decided on the big one. They said it was two kilometers from here, but that a taxi would be best as it’s a complicated route. And given the temperatures (30s) and my foot and the road and street conditions, we thought a taxi made sense so we asked the hotel to call a taxi and also to see if the taxi could wait for about an hour while we explored. Then we wouldn’t have to navigate where to find a taxi to get back.

The guy at the front desk who has some English, but peppers every sentence or even ever phrase with “honestly” said “Honestly, that is a good idea… I mean honestly there are taxis but hard to find, honestly”  He also told us that he would like to drive us to the airport tonight (about an hour from Khiva, in Urgench). He said he would like to do it, but of course he will charge like a taxi.  Honestly! So I suppose he will be our driver to Urgench.

The market is a big sprawling area that is probably the equivalent of 10 city blocks by 12 city blocks… perhaps larger. We were clearly the only foreigners there, with everyone else doing actual shopping. Unlike markets in many other places where vendors try to attract customers, it seemed as if people had regular customers and customers knew where they were headed. It’s an outdoor market so I really felt for the vendors who had to sit in the bitter cold to sell their goods. The clothing and accessories were all factory made… and as we, as Americans move to eliminate plastic — I think the Uzbekis are in the midst of a huge plastic surgence. Finally we reached the meat and produce and baked goods areas and the large area devoted to the many different kinds of rice and tea. We stopped at one rice vendor to ask which rice was used for plov… but either they didn’t understand the question (no one in the market spoke even a word of English) or perhaps they did…. she pointed to each huge bag of rice and said “Plov, Plov, Plov”… so who knows.. Maybe all of their rice options can be used for plov.

Customers and vendors alike were very friendly and occasionally said “Hello” or “Bye” and sometimes they said “Italy?” or “France”…. But when we answered “American” they often gave a thumbs up or smiled. We generally followed “America” with “California.” Not clear if they really knew but they gave another thumbs up. So, in response to the questions that some of you posed to me, about any reaction to current American international policy… I can say that we can get BBC News on the tiny, outdated TV in our room (not sure that locals can get it), and people remain very friendly to us. My general experience, having traveled in many countries where one might find antagonism toward the US, and possibly Americans, is that somehow people seem to get it that those Americans who travel, especially independently must be curious and interested in their lives. As such we have never encountered any anti American sentiment directed toward us, although we have understood their antagonism against the country we live in. Only once, were we attacked personally — and that was in Helsinki on May Day during the Vietnam War… when a rather drunk Finn said “Why are you killing little yellow people in Vietnam?” Since we had been living in Helsinki for nearly a year by then, we responded quickly with “We’re here in Helsinki celebrating May Day with friends and are not supporting any killing of yellow people in Vietnam…. and by the way, where in the US did you study since your English is excellent and with an American accent!” We then embraced and had a beer together.

Anyway at one point in the market a woman got very excited when we said we were Americans… she had heard because a lot of vendors were telling others that there were Americans at the market. She was a rice vendor. She leaned over from behind her perch and the bulk bags of rice and grabbed Mike’s coat… and she motioned to her cell phone (everyone has one). She called her daughter to tell her daughter that Americans were at the market. And then she handed Mike her phone. Her daughter was on the line and spoke some English; the mother wanted her to practice her English. From what Mike understood, the daughter was at the university – a psychology major (he thinks). They chatted in simple sentences and the mother was delighted. I think she became a bit of a star in the bazaar for this new friendship.

Then of course after meandering rows and rows and aisles and aisles of the somewhat depressing market, we needed to figure out where the taxi had left us. Probably needed to have kept some kind of marked route. But we did it; found the driver and we headed back to pack and ice my foot for a while. But first we walked to a lunch place close to the hotel and also stopped into what they call the “music museum.” It was in an old madrasa. I think the Uzbeks, given the secular nature of the country, have repurposed hundreds of madrasas into museums, shops, restaurants, craft workshops, etc. The museum was – like the others we’ve ventured into – filled with exhibits that were not very well crafted, dimly lit, and thus unfortunate. I think the history of their music is actually quite interesting and the Uzbeks, like many of the other Central Asian countries uses some fascinating instruments that produce sounds that are different from typical European string and wind instruments. Alas, they could use some help in exhibition design.

And along the way, we stumbled on two more weddings. I think that it is customary for the bride and groom to walk the east / west length of the Ichan Kala (either before or after the actual rituals). It’s sort of a stone paved walk in the pedestrian district. They sometimes make stops along the way into small mosques or to dance to the music playing at shops along the way. Today, I watched the bride remove her 4” white spike high heels (hidden by the pouffy dress) at the door of a small mosque, and for the groom to don a “kufi” (hat), that he had in his pocket… They were inside the mosque for only a few minutes and then back onto the walk.

We head to Urgench to fly to Tashkent… then somehow get to the International terminal in Tashkent and fly to Istanbul and transfer to Baku… It will be a true miracle if we make it, without a hitch. I’m about to repack and am preparing for the high probability that bags could get lost… so I’m moving several essentials to my computer carry-on bag, along with a few changes of clothing…. just in case. We are only in Baku a very very few days and hope we can get a lot in… Then we head home.

More from Baku.

Fern

Greetings from Khiva –

Decided to stay in room for a few hours this morning to do some work, ice my foot, and rest. It was probably a smart move as I felt more confident walking (and going up and down all those steep exterior stairs with uneven risers and some steps being about 12” high compared with our typical US step being 6” high). Anyway, we started at Djuma Mosque which is pretty amazing… with a roof supported by about 112 beautifully carved columns. The original mosque dates back to the 10^th century, but the current building was reconstructed on top of that in the 1700s. It’s a wonderful space that gets interesting light and is very different from other mosques we have seen throughout Uzbekistan (and for that matter, in other countries). The space is filled with a huge number of carved columns, some of which came from the earlier structure. It’s super peaceful, dimly lit, and is a great respite from the bustling street on which it sits. Actually, you can imagine that these streets are probably quite busy in warm weather. It’s interesting to travel off season (which started when we were both in academia and the easiest time to be gone was over the Christmas holidays; summers would have been good on academic schedules, but too much was always going on in our offices during those months) because there are very few tourists and you do get a sense of real life activities in the more difficult time of the year, when produce and other goods are generally not too available. Not everyone would like this, but frankly, I really love it.

Anyway, we then strolled into a very old building (probably from the 16 or 1700s) that housed a permanent photo exhibit of images from the 1920s and 30s… Unfortunately, not very well exhibited or lit, but the images were interesting including some from the time of the Russian Revolution or shortly after. A great photo of a group was titled “The Intelligentsia” and another was of the Elected Farm Council.

We had a quick (well really nothing is quick here, so I should probably say light) late lunch – soup. Then we walked slowly to the other end of the Itcha Kala, where we will head again tomorrow to see Khiva’s big bazaar on the outside of the Itchan Kala, before we leave for the airport. After a brief stop at the hotel, we left for dinner.

While in the room this morning I did a little research and called a few restaurants. One that sounded good was going to be closed at night because the cook (owner, perhaps) was going to a birthday celebration for her niece. Another was closed for the season; another was closing because they feared there wouldn’t be enough customers. But, I talked to one man whose English wasn’t very good and he turned over the phone to his son (??) I was told that they were not opening their restaurant but they often serve meals in their home which is adjacent to the restaurant (which is actually adjacent to a large mosque). I said we’d love to eat at their home, so the arrangements were made and shortly after that I got a series of WhatsApps asking what we wanted to eat, drink, and what time we’d come. He also described the location, which was very central and off the main walking street (so we knew it wasn’t down little alleyways with rocky paths.

We left the hotel around 7 and arrived at the house. We were greeted by the son (?) and his wife and the restaurant worker.. and also two young children – a two year old rambunctious little boy and a very shy five year old girl. It’s a really big house which they use for a multitude of money-making ventures — quite entrepreneurial (which is apparently encouraged by the current government). They have a shop in front of the restaurant and they use the house as a bit of a hostel and also a small restaurant when the regular restaurant is closed. They can accommodate tour groups inside the house for meals as well.

Anyway, I’m going to close down now… Tomorrow (Saturday) after the market we take a one-hour taxi to Urgench (where the airport is) to fly on a domestic flight (1.5 hours) to Tashkent to then navigate how to get to the international terminal to catch Turkish Air flight to Istanbul (5.5 hours)  then 3 hour wait at Istanbul airport to get 3 hour Turkish Air flight to Baku, Azerbaijan – about 10.5 hours of flight time plus waiting/transfer time of about 6 additional hours.. for a distance that could be covered in about 2.5  hours if there was a direct flight from Urgench to Baku… But alas.. this will be our route.

More from Baku…

Best –

Fern

Greetings from Khiva!

Following our very un-luxurious train ride from Bukhara (through the night), we arrived in Khiva yesterday (Thursday, January 9) at about 11 am and taxied to the hotel. After we settled in, showered (after that train ride), we decided to explore the city before it got dark.

It’s a small city of about 90,000 people located on the western edge (toward the north) of the country… actually right on the border with Turkmenistan. There are really two parts to the city – an “outer town” that is known as Dichan Kala, and an “inner city” called Itchan Kala which is surrounded by ancient fortress walls made of brick, mud, straw, rammed earth… They say the foundations for these walls were laid in the 10^th Century. Parts of the wall were redone in the late 1600s and are about 30 feet tall. There are literally scores of “towers” and minarets within the Itchan Kala (which is where we are staying and there is a very tall one that we can almost touch from our window). There is also a very large tower (far more squat than all the others which have a graceful and elegant base and rise to the top), called Kalta Minor – it’s a large blue tower very centrally located. Apparently it was supposed to be a minaret (probably intended to be taller than most of the others, as one can judge from the width of the base. But the Khan who had “commissioned” it died well before it was completed and the next Khan decided to leave it be…

There are about 300 families who live in mostly mud and dry bale type houses throughout the inner part of the city, within the Itchan Kala. One of the most fascinating buildings we encountered in our walk yesterday was the Dhjuma Mosque from the 10^th Century (and rebuilt in the 1700s… using 112 columns that were retained from the original structure. All over these ancient cities and towns there is construction and reconstruction going on as efforts are made to shore up existing ancient structures and everywhere you can see settling of the structures with many leaning or bowing. Remember, no rebar or steel in the construction. The techniques to do this are interesting.

As we strolled we encountered two weddings.. The bride and groom and their entourages seem to take a ceremonial walk through the old city with photographers and family surrounding them. The brides wear totally extravagant full length, white puffy dresses with lots of layers and probably hoops under the skirts. Dresses are modest with high necks and full-length coverings on the arms… The brides are very made up with hair piled high on their heads. Anyway, I chased the two brides to get a few photographs which was not easy. Maybe I’ll see more tomorrow. As they leave the gates of the old city, the bride (maybe with her mother?) gets into a car and drives off – perhaps for a big lunch.

We had had lunch at our hotel, and thus decided quickly not to have dinner there… So, we asked the front desk guy who speaks some English to suggest restaurants. He said many would be closed due to the weather and winter season. But he told us that the “Terrace Restaurant” was open. We trekked in the totally dark “streets” that were very difficult to navigate given the uneven stones, unpaved, mostly dirt that was not level…. Took us about 10 minutes to do the supposed 4-minute walk. Naturally when we got there, the restaurant was closed. So we meandered back to the hotel to have dinner which was not too good. I had the famous Khiva green (dill) noodles which was edible.. Mike had some kind of beef which he likened to shoe leather with limp French fries. So much for that meal.

Anyway, during the night my foot really began to hurt. I must have moved in a funny way that pulled the ankle. The hotel couldn’t make ice for me last night.. I think they forgot and then when I asked for it, the water had not frozen. So it was a tough night, with lots of consideration given to skipping Baku and heading straight home Saturday.. or possibly getting off plane in Istanbul (where we would need to change planes for Baku) and spending a night or two and then getting flight to SFO on Monday, cutting the trip short. The stop in Istanbul would make the flight a little less strenuous. But as morning came and I got up and navigated the stairs down for breakfast.. I decided that I could ice my foot and stay in the room for a few hours while Mike explored… and then I’d be ready to go. So right now the plan is to stick with the original program. I’m just about ready to explore more of Khiva now.

Based on the above… the photos attached that show the wall and the path along the top of the wall of the city are from Mike. Frankly, even with two well-functioning feet, I’m not sure I would have ventured the path along the top that is pretty narrow and without any rail… I have a slight fear of heights. I might have done it, but been uncomfortable.

Cheers.. More later.

Fern

First a clarification.. In the previous email I said something about 20% of salaries being above the median… What I meant to say was that 20% of professionals earn considerably more than the median amount. Hope that’s clearer.

Just a very short note to let you know we made it to Khiva….. but what a trip.

First of all, we had to leave the hotel at 2:30 am to get to the station – which turns out to be quite a distance from the old city. The taxi took about 25 minutes. And while it seemed as if our luggage was compact and easy to trolley in typical airport settings, it’s actually been challenging on the very uneven, cobblestone streets with very frequent potholes, mud, and other obstructions. And add to that the fact that the stairs from the second floor of any of these old hotels with dark, unlit exterior stairs (with very uneven and often high risers) would be difficult and challenging at any time, but my bum ankle made it extraordinarily challenging. Anyway we taxied to the station which was expectedly barren. No one spoke any English, but we kept showing our tickets and guards and train personnel pointed to where we needed to go.

After leaving the waiting area, we trekked along the tracks and then had to cross over the closest track to get to the farther track… which meant going down a very deep step to cross over some wooden slats that covered the tracks temporarily and then climbing up a very high “step” to get to the “back” platform. Then we could see our train… a rather old and dusty train – 1950s vintage, I’d say. We could see a crude sheet of paper taped to the window of one car that said “4” which was what our ticket said – for our first class cabin!!  I’ve taken pretty bleak trains in Romania and in Tibet… but this one took the prize.  We managed to find our “cabin” which had two beds – more like covered pieces of plywood. Our baggage filled most of the cabin. Unlike the Tibet train, where there were four beds (bunk beds) where we could put the luggage on the upper beds… this just had the two beds so we had to put luggage between these beds. There were several switches on the wall.. but only one worked – turning the overhead light on and off. There appeared to be night lights, but they didn’t work.

While we didn’t sleep, we did lie down keeping our coats on the whole time. There might have been a dining car, but no one told us that  (In Tibet they shoved a piece of paper under our door with pictures of food so we figured out there was a dining car). Anyway, it was “only” a 7-hour ride. The train only made about four stops… and the view out the window (which wasn’t too clean) was pretty bleak. I don’t think there were any other foreigners on the train. Most tourists get to Khiva by either flying from Tashkent or by renting a driver.. or else they must be part of tour groups that have vans or buses.

It was an experience.. We were happy to arrive in Khiva which from what we can see is a beautiful small city … and a UNESCO Heritage Site. We found a taxi at the station and it took a bit of maneuvering for him to find our hotel. There are two Malika hotels in Khiva.. One is called Malika Khiva and the other Malika Kheiviat. We are at the latter and the taxi driver seemed to only know the other one. But I was able to find the right one on my phone and the driver called the hotel for directions. Complicated since we are staying inside the Ichan Kala… right in the center of the old city.

Tomorrow I’ll post about Khiva… For now, the experience of the train was sufficient.

Best –

Fern

PLUS

Several people asked for a photo of the inside of the “cabin” on the train. Thought I had included it, but here it is…

Final Greetings from Bukhara on a positively beautiful blue sky.. cold but wonderful.

We had already decided that we would take a taxi about 50 kilometers to the town of Gijudan (population about 19,000) to see the ceramic studio of the Narzuelleva (sp?) family’s ceramics studio. They still use methods that are at least 1,000 years old and the family has been doing traditional ceramics for seven generations. The drive to Gijudan was in the direction of Samarkand and was the road we had driven ourselves a few days ago. Anyway, we arrived at the complex which is about 18 years old. Prior to this, the father and uncle worked out of their home. I get the feeling that one of the sons (they are probably in their 40s) is a bit of a marketer and figured out that they could set up a complex to show the ceramics process and also set up a shop.. and have rooms for tour groups to have lunch and to sit through “lectures” on the ceramic process. Anyway, since it was only Mike and me they walked through the process fairly quickly, and we asked a lot of questions (brought back memories of taking a ceramics class at Pratt – not my favorite, but I did understand all the steps involved).

We then had some tea with the son, whose English is halting, but I think we got the whole story. He is the seventh generation and his 10-year old daughter who was actually painting some of the pots is the eighth generation – although she plans to be a doctor and not get involved with the family business. But he has two sons and is hopeful one of them will carry on the family tradition. When it comes to crafts, men do ceramics and women do embroidery, he explained.

After tea, which was served with a little platter of nuts and candies (their pistachios are quite different from what we know as pistachios in North America), we made a pit stop at the local madrasa and mosque complex. And then we headed back to Bukhara; met up with Feruzi to try on my vest and shirt/jacket which needed a little bit of adjustment… so then we strolled around the old section of town and returned a few hours later to pick up my package. Great job.

Just finished dinner at Old Bukhara Restaurant (fair to middling — definitely don’t come to Uzbekistan for the food). We sat at a table adjacent to some Uzbek businessmen (or so we think) and they were joined for a while by a local cop. We’re hopeful the culinary options will move up the scale when we get to Azerbaijan. Anyway, we are taking the overnight train to Khiva (leaves at 4:20 am). We are a little concerned about maneuvering our bags (especially with me still a bit incapacitated) into the station, onto the train, into our rail car cabin, and off the train at the end. We’re assuming there will be lots of “men” willing to help for a small fee. Still, I think it will be complicated, especially while we will be half asleep. We had no choice with regard to day or time. The train from Bukhara to Khiva only goes twice a week and it’s just this one ‘night train” at this time of year. Indeed, this reality sort of shaped part of our travel plans. So we get to Khiva at 11 am (half-dead) on Thursday (tomorrow) and we leave Khiva on Saturday through another crazy travel logistic nightmare. More on that later.

One thing we were curious about – especially given how cheap eating is – was salary levels. A bit of research on my part indicates that the annual median wage for particular professions (in Tashkent, the capital) is as follows… physicians: $13,000 (that’s annual!); architects $7,500; lawyers: $6,700…. And so it goes. About 25% of professionals in these fields earn about 20% over that median amount. To give you a sense of costs, beyond the price for dinners that I’ve mentioned already…. Our taxi ride today (50 km in each direction/ 100 km total – 60 miles), including waiting time… resulting in a total of about 3.5 hours, cost the equivalent of $15. But if the driver had just 2.5 times our trip today ($37.00), he’d make an annual salary that is higher than dentists, lawyers, engineers, etc. Of course no guarantee that his taxi will be consistently occupied.

Next post from Khiva..

Best –

Fer