This morning we opted to return to Java House, where we now are familiar faces; two visits and we are regulars!

So after walking back to the hotel to figure out our day, it became obvious that rain would be coming soon. Thus we opted not to walk any where and that maybe we should be real tourists for a day.. or at least a little like real tourists. We decided to rent a driver and head to the neighborhood known as Karen (an upscale area north of the center of town where we were staying). We used a driver from the hotel because we figured we might need the car for at least six or seven hours. The driver (whose name escapes me) was quite knowledgeable and was able to relay a good deal of information and was quite conversant, once he realized our politics. So despite the fact that the drive was long, due to the incredible number of cars, matatus, and buses and trucks choking the air and trying to move from place to place on inadequate roads, we had a good time.

During the drive we discussed local politics (corruption), schools (inadequate unless you can pay to go to private schools of some sort) – 50 students to a classroom, insufficient supply of text books – much like what I witnessed in South Africa last year.

The driver was – in many ways — a typical Nairobi worker – grew up in a rural area focused on farming, with minimal support for schooling but like everyone else saw Nairobi as the dream for a job with potential. We also talked about the role of missionaries in Kenya, historically. He had an interesting line: “The flags follow the crosses…”… meaning that first the missionaries come and then they are followed by the colonizers, with the missionaries making it easier for the colonizers to “set up shop.” We talked about salaries and how one gets by; we discussed the situation in the slums, and we talked about the Kenyan Constitution and the structure of the government. He says they copied the US Constitution.. which actually sounds true.. They have a president and two official houses that make up the legislative branch. One includes one member from each “county” within Kenya; the other is based on many many sub areas within each “county.” He says the problem is that he thinks they copied the constitution and didn’t really tailor it enough to meet local needs.. and we laughed and said that we felt that after more than 200 years it was time for a new constitutional convention and a new constitution for the US that would consider how much things have changed..

We also discussed the land issue which is a complicated and essential topic in African cities. Apparently, the government is beginning to crack down on illegal development on public land. As a result several shopping centers and other buildings have been torn down. Greedy developers just move onto properties and start building. Historically, no one said anything and the buildings got occupied and that was that. Not clear this effort will change things much, but it’s seen as a start.

We headed first to Tamambo, a wonderful little café on the coffee grounds of the original Karen Blixen estate (more on that in a bit); service was incredibly slow and we worried it could put a dent into the very long list of things we wanted to see and do. After lunch I headed to the Kazuri bead factory to see the bead-making techniques and check out their on-site shop while Mike got dropped off at the Giraffe Center where he was determined he would “kiss” a giraffe (apparently you get some kind of pellet of food and stick it between your lips and the giraffe comes over and slobbers over you and grabs the food). Did not sound like something I needed to experience.

So, back at the bead factory. There was a ‘mandatory’ tour which proved informative and also disturbing. The bead center was started by some religious person who wanted to help unmarried mothers. Now, some years later it’s a thriving enterprise with at least 70 workers (mostly women – and the women make the beads; the few men working there make the mugs and newer items they have added to their portfolio). When I went inside the first building (really a series of huts) everyone was singing a religious song – it was Christian but they were singing in Swahili, and then there was a prayer. Apparently this happens twice a day. The bead-making process is very rote and the women have strict quotas they must meet each day. They do rotate the jobs.. two days you are making the clay beads; two days you might be putting the holes into the beads; two days you’re involved with the firing; two days painting (based on a very strict pattern and color scheme you are given); two days involved with firing once the colors are on the beads; two days stringing the necklaces.. etc. etc. Turns out that Kazuri has established quite an enterprise with orders from around the world.

Meanwhile, Mike got his wish in that he fed the giraffe, but didn’t do the pellet in the mouth deal. (For images of Mike feeding the giraffe, you need to contact him directly)

By now it was pouring and we were glad we hadn’t decided to walk.. From there we went to an amazing craft store to check out the wares… Many really spectacular things, but pricey and too much to carry home.

Then we headed to the Karen Blixen Museum. (This is the “Karen” for whom the whole area is named and nearly everything around is named Karen something.) Karen Blixen is the Danish author of “Out of Africa” – goes mostly by the pen name Isak Dinesin. The museum is actually her house – the one depicted in the film version with Robert Redford and Meryl Streep and the one described in great length in the book. The grounds are quite wonderful and many of the artifacts in the house pointed to an independent woman with big ideas. Apparently she left Kenya after 18 years to return to Denmark, never to come to Africa again even though she lived another 30 years. For some time the house was rented out and then after her death the Danish government bought the property and held onto it, hoping it would become a historic place of interest. When Kenya became independent, the Danish government gave the property with all of its artifacts to the new nation, which has clearly invested in preserving it and promoting it as a destination.

After all of these stops, we headed to Talisman, a much recommended restaurant (in Karen – down a small side path and rocky road). We told the driver to go home to his family (two daughters and a 4-month old son) and that we would find a way back to the hotel. He seemed pleased with the arrangement. And it was now really coming down, with lightning and thunder.

Talisman was a pleasant surprise – a “gastrolounge” in an old farmhouse with meandering rooms for the bar and the restaurant. Crows was a total fusion of Nairobi (albeit, missing poor people). Following drinks (I’m now really into these “dawas” we headed to one of the dinner spaces. The menu was totally eclectic – we opted for samosas, Moroccan spiced beef, and also the ostrich dish (great!) and couldn’t resist dessert – chocolate malva (sort of mousse with a champagne orange curd). The house and each room had several fireplaces, which was good because the rain was unrelenting and the spaces were sort of open… and clearly no heat.

We fetched a taxi back to the hotel to pack… It was an intense 4 nights and 3.5 days. All good. Highly recommend a trip to Nairobi.

Fern

Salamu Kutoka Nairobi (Greetings from Nairobi)

Hope you are well.

While it is only the end of our second day here in Nairobi (third night), we are packing so much into each day, it feels as if we’ve been here for at least a week.

So a few observations and comments and then some descriptions of our adventures today.

• Very few people assume we are from the US as it’s clear there aren’t too many Americans coming to Nairobi to stroll the city; true there are probably many Americans here in Kenya – but they just stop off in Nairobi to prepare for safaris. Thus we are a bit of a rarity. Taxi drivers, shop keepers, etc. all ask where we are from. Oakland or San Francisco don’t prompt any real recognition; California prompts some small familiarity, but mostly we are sticking to the big picture – “We’re from the US”
• Being from the US brings an immediate response – “Obama!!” which easily leads to a few fist bumps and smiles and comments like “good president” – which leads to the Trump comments: “bad president!”
• Workers leave their houses at about 5:30 am every morning in order to be at work by 8 am; they need to avoid the likely traffic jams which would make them late. They travel on “matutus” – little vans or minibuses that take passengers (for low fares) from outlying slums and low income areas into the central area and other destinations. They operate 24 hours a day and have distinct routes. They are very crowded and not in great repair. Until recently these matutus were privately owned but we were told that the government recently took them over because the drivers (owners?) kept threatening to strike which would truly screw up the “functioning” of the city.  Some of the matutus boast portraits of famous people; music is generally being played on the vans —  I think this attracts passengers.

• Again, because not many Americans seem to be here in Nairobi several people think we are from Iceland – not sure why they chose that country, but they are surprised when we respond in the negative to that question.
• Women are clearly much friendlier than men (although the taxi drivers – all male, I think – are also quite chatty if you engage them).
• We’ve been asked if we’ve been anywhere else in Africa and people are surprised we have traveled in Africa several times before this trip, and perhaps surprised we have returned.
• When we explained to one taxi driver that we were planning to visit a bunch of different neighborhoods and then listed a few, he said “So you are going to see both sides — the poor and the rich..” True.
• Very little evidence of Christmas here; in fact, other than the market selling some handmade little angels one wouldn’t know the holiday is just around the corner.

We bypassed the hotel breakfast this morning and got out into the streets; walked about .75 miles to the Java House which is like a Starbucks with a restaurant menu. There are Java Houses all over the place. We obviously stood out a bit as the only White people in the place, but everyone was either friendly or totally ignored us. Our waitress explained that Java House was started by an American couple in the 1980s and after opening a few stores sold their ownership to locals who have expanded the “chain” – She was quite proud of the operations with 60 shops and more coming, including expansion into Uganda. I guess it is the Starbucks of Africa (by the way, don’t think there are any Starbucks here – so Howard Schultz, watch out. Interesting, since there are Starbucks all over Asia and Latin America).

After breakfast, we walked to the Maasai Market which takes place only on Tuesdays. The walk was pretty straight forward, except for crossing multi-lane roads without any pedestrian walkways or traffic lights (there are very very few traffic lights in Nairobi); it’s sort of run for your life. Our trick in these situations here and in other developing nations is always: find a group of locals trying to cross the same street and get in the middle.. when they move, you move!

The Market is filled with craftspeople selling their wares. The sellers probably outnumbered the potential patrons 30 to 1 so there are a lot of men trying to tag along with you as you meander the “stalls” (really just goods on the ground and the seller sitting on a chair nearby).

The market had some nice things, but we’re conscious of the fact that we need to think about packing and also we are so early on our journey… bound to find other things. From the market we walked back to the hotel (and into another world)… to just freshen up and head to the “shantytowns” or “slums” where the marginalized population of about 2.5 million live.

Enroute back we stopped into the University of Nairobi, which is located down the street from our hotel. It’s a typical large public university – Getting onto the campus wasn’t so easy; and like all the students we needed to show identification and go through a security check. Mike joined some students on a bench as I checked out the bookstore. By the way, there are signs all around the University that state “University of Nairobi is a corruption-free zone”

We knew we needed a taxi to get to Kibera (the largest of the slums – housing about one million people, although no one really knows the count). I had a conversation with the woman at the desk at the hotel – I explained that we wanted a “street taxi” to drive us to Kibera and then to wait to pick us up; we would walk around for about 90 minutes. We knew it would not be possible to find a taxi in or near Kibera to bring us back into town. And we also knew we didn’t want a hotel taxi.

She was quite sweet and understood, but explained that the hotel could not do this; they are only allowed to call for official taxis, or take us by hotel car. Their “taxis” are fancy cars (including Mercedes), so we opted to walk around the neighborhood to find a taxi and do our own negotiation. We actually only had to walk across the street to find a bunch of cars waiting for passengers. We explained what we wanted and the driver, Julius, was most accommodating, although he was a little nervous about our walking through Kibera on our own. Like all “visits” to areas of this sort, it’s challenging. You stand out as an outsider on more levels than it is possible to describe. But we insisted and Julius said he’d just wait for us in a designated location. We walked and chatted with a few people and realized once again that slum dwellers may be the most entrepreneurial people in the world.

People in Kibera earn just a few dollars a year; there are virtually no services; and education is hard to come by. We did however see that there is a strong movement against violence with campaign-type signs everywhere pushing for “peace” and against all forms of violence. Interestingly this is the only place in Nairobi we didn’t see police or guards or machine guns. We also saw a lot of signs about HIV protection. According to the research we did, Kibera has one of highest rates of HIV in the world.

The “shops” in Kibera are about 10’ x 9’ at most; they are built of mud or tin or random pieces of found wood. Electricity is gerry-rigged and water is all but unavailable. Garbage collection is very infrequent, if at all. And raw sewerage is evident as you walk through the town. Supposedly there have been recent reforms and experiments and education in Kibera is supposed to be the best of all the slum areas. Still, we strolled for more than an hour and never saw a school. Kids loved to speak with us and loved having their pictures taken. With the adults, it was once again the Obama connection – once they knew we were from the US. Amazing!

We rejoined Julius at the taxi at the appointed location about two hours later, and headed back to the hotel for a drink.

Tonight we were planning to eat at Amaica, some kind of fusion African restaurant we read about. But we wound up having dinner at Nyama Mama, because Amaica was closed for the holidays (very difficult to find these things out in advance!). Still we were set on eating African food, so this place seemed to make sense. It was fine, but not great. Crowd was very mixed.

Fern

Sawa (Hello in Swahili)

We’re on our annual winter travel trip: Nairobi, Kampala, Kigali, Dar es Salaam, and Zanzibar. … an overview of East Africa’s major cities.. No safari! We saw the Big Five at a reserve in South Africa some 15 years ago. Been there; done that. Only kidding. Still we made a conscious choice to ignore the animals (along with the related cushy accommodations and the great food). That said, Mike is thinking about going to see the gorillas in Uganda. We shall see. If he does, that will be without me.

The trip was tiring. SFO to Frankfurt to Nairobi. We are at the Fairmont Norfolk Hotel. Somehow between October (my last overseas travel, just two months ago) and December, the rules changed. US now photographs each passenger in addition to triple-checking passports. We were both in business class, but somehow not seated together. But it was one of those flat-bed flights and the seat configuration was 1-2-1, so it really didn’t matter much. Service on United was pretty terrible, so we were happy to switch to our Lufthansa flight once we got to Frankfurt.

We had only 60 minutes to change planes, and naturally our gate was .9 miles from where we landed. We had only carry-on bags (yes!) which meant lugging them through the long airport walk. Naturally since it was Frankfurt, we had a 10-minute bus ride within the airport from our plane; the long walk; a train ride to the terminal; had to go through security again (German side) and the lines for that were unbelievable. We ran and then just hoped for the best. But alas, although we got to the gate totally out of breath, but on time, only to discover that our departure was delayed and delayed. We finally took off about two hours late – postponing our arrival in Nairobi from 9:30 pm to 11:30 pm (Sunday).

The Nairobi airport is pretty “basic” without any of the cushiness we find in US and European airports and even in some North African airports. Naturally, the jetway didn’t work so we were left with stairs.

Upon landing, we were greeted immediately by armed guards with machine guns (Hadn’t really seen that since Ecuador – I think); and another photo for the Kenyan Airport folks. I feel like my photo is now everywhere. We headed to an ATM machine and then looked for a “somewhat legitimate” taxi. We arrived at the rather snazzy colonial-style Fairmont Norfolk at about 1 am. The hotel was built in 1904; it’s a sort of hidden gem with its elegance and understated charm. The hotel, just like most restaurants, shops, businesses, public buildings, etc. have tons of security – and lots of men with machine guns; not sure they really work. So to get into the hotel (and all the others) the taxi has to stop at a barrier while we sit in our seats – two guards come to open the car doors to “inspect;” mostly they look at the floors and in the glove compartment and the trunk; then the car moves to another arm that has to be lifted and we get out. Then we go through a screening process (airport-like) and then you’re inside the hotel. Frankly, I don’t think any of it works because today I forgot to take my cell phone out of my pocket and no alarms went off. One of the interesting things is that everyone you talk to or meet – from taxi drivers to front desk hotel staff to shopkeepers – assumes you’re in Nairobi to go on a safari (Guess that’s what foreigners do). So they just ask what day you will leave for your safari or if you liked your safari. I think it’s like assuming that everyone who comes to California goes to Disneyland. So they are all caught off guard when we say we are here to see their city.

While we were exhausted and wanted to sleep – we opted to unpack and head for the hotel’s delightful bar for night caps. And then we crashed. By then it was 3:30 am. This morning we got to actually see the hotel. The grounds are truly beautiful and the location is great. Lots of gardens…but right in the center of town. We opted to have breakfast at the hotel so that we could get an early start checking out Kenya’s capital city – home to about 6.5 million people. Following a great breakfast, we decided we needed a real street map of the city in order to figure out where we were and where we’d head. This is actually a difficult thing to find. Finally the hotel suggested we go to the “text book center;” the hotel is located just across the way from the University of Nairobi. Naturally, they thought they should take us there; but we assured everyone we were fine walking to the shop. We did get a map (two in fact), although they look used and really worn. But they will work.

Then off we went for a most interesting day – to the top of the KICC (Kenyatta International Conference Center) – a strange 28-story building built in the early 70s when the country became independent. It is one of the few buildings with a viewing deck where you can get an overview of the city. Of course, lots of security every step of the way, plus signing in and out and giving up your passport while you’re inside the building. The elevator takes you up to the 27^th floor and then you climb up the thirtieth floor which is really the roof. The air was not very clear so we didn’t get quite the effect we hoped but we did get a sense of the city’s form, including some very large parks at the outskirts.

We strolled (a bit of an exaggeration since you’re always watching your every step when you walk in most cities in developing nations because the sidewalks are always chopped up and there are always uneven steps and unexpected barriers) to have lunch at the Thorn Tree Restaurant – a patio café that has fed everyone from Hemingway to Gregory Peck. It’s got an eclectic menu – from Indian to Italian. We opted for the former. Interesting we keep asking about good, local cuisine (Kenyan), and everyone sends us to Nigerian or Ethiopian restaurants. We also tried the restaurant’s famous drink – the dawa – vodka, mint, lemon, and honey. Quite good. No surprise, no one really knows how to tell you how to get anywhere. The Thorn Tree (located in the Stanley Hotel) has been in the same place for well over a century, yet shopkeepers and guards, and others cannot tell you how to get there, even though it’s within a block of where they are standing.

Following lunch, we searched for a taxi (not wanting to use taxis at hotels because they are really spiffy and sterile and I think the drivers are trained on how to answer questions so as not to get into any heavy dialogue). Finally we found a group of drivers with taxi “medallions” on the top of the car and walked up to one – explaining that we wanted to go to the Africa Heritage House (which we had read about) and which is located adjacent to (or perhaps actually within) the Nairobi National Park. We knew it was in Mavoko (or Mlolongo) which was about a 20-minute drive. Got into the car (as the driver removed the “medallion” from atop the car) and off we went. Before this, the driver (in Swahili) was clearly asking the other “drivers” for directions. Traffic was horrendous. In the end it took about 1.5 hours to go 20 kilometers (12 miles), but the drive took us along the edges of several shantytowns so once we left the CBD it was interesting. At one point when we were just stuck sitting in traffic I contemplated heading to Marg’s Hot Hot Hotel.. which was on the route!

We stopped numerous times for the driver to ask for directions again and again. We were a little surprised since we thought this was a major museum. However, as we meandered on the road to Mlilongo we began to wonder why a museum would be so far out of town. We rationalized that they had probably chosen a tranquil location in the national park. But as we approached a dirt road (naturally with a gate and a guard), we figured we were there. We were. But , it turns out, it is not really a museum, although it should be.

It is the private house of an American (Alan Donovan) who has lived in Kenya for more than 50 years; he came in the 60s with the US State Department, during the Biafra/Nigeria war. He fell in love with Africa (initially Nigeria while on a trip to a small village of craftsmen) and with African art and artifacts; left the State Department, and settled in Kenya where he became best friends with the first Vice President of the country, Murumbi and his wife, Sheila. Anyway, as we approached this spectacular mud-dabbed building designed by Donovan and based on the architecture of three different African cultures, we realized this was a pretty special place. But, they said we could not enter because we had not made the proper arrangements. Indeed, we had not made any arrangements. Apparently you need to book a tour in advance. You can also book lunch at the house. Of course, my NY-style surfaced immediately as I explained what we each do to the man at the house (who was clearly an assistant to, and not, Mr. Donovan), and explained we had made a special trip to see this place. I think he realized that we weren’t leaving, so he told us to wait and he went to speak with Donovan. During the time he went to speak with Donovan, we meandered gently into the house but there was so much to take in. This guy had collected amazing artifacts and also nurtured the careers of scores of then-young African artists to develop profitable careers. He also founded several African bands and Afro-jazz groups.

The Kenyan assistant reappeared and said that he would do the tour because Donovan could not, but that we would hear Donovan’s voice on this tape recorder that he carried from room to room and area to area. At the end of the “tour” which began at the railroad tracks (built by India) adjacent to the new tracks built by the Chinese government which defines the edge of the property and from which you get two spectacular views.. one of the house and the other of the vast national park where the major big animals still roam. It’s the area where the wilderbeast migrations took place annually (until recently).

I photographed pretty consistently on the ‘tour”.. (about 285 images in the 90 minutes), but this sample hopefully gives the story.

At the end of the tour, we met Alan Donovan who has been ill for the past year. He apologized for not taking us on the tour personally – and we chatted for a time. The house – in all its splendor – and his astute eye for both contemporary and ancient African tribal artifacts brought up old issues for me: the dilemma of making “little ‘a’ art” into “big ‘a’ art;” private ownership and commodification of art; etc. At the same time, it is clear as one traverses Nairobi, that there is little acknowledgement of history and of the amazing contributions of tribal cultures and their forms. So at least someone is protecting these artifacts. The good news is that it appears that Donovan (Murumbi and his wife are deceased and he credits Murumbi with the idea of this kind of preservation and also economic development through craft and art) has plans for the house and its content after his death. He has approached the Obama Foundation!! And offered everything to them – as a total donation, on the terms that they preserve it as a place to retain African culture. He’s also offered that the Obamas can visit and stay at the house as frequently as they’d like. We shall see… Interesting politics there!

We returned to the hotel.. and again traffic was horrendous. After a very brief time at the hotel, we headed to an Ethiopian restaurant in the Westlands neighborhood. Food was great. Lots of students from Nairobi colleges.. It too, was down a winding dirt path.

We returned home to our little abode at the Norfolk at about 11:00 pm..

Best –

Fern