Saludos desde nuestro ultima horas en Cartagena y primeras horas de Medellin 

Had dinner at Club de Pesca last night… It was about 1.75 miles from the hotel… We decided to walk, although it was  bit complicated — dark streets interspersed with lots of lights for Christmas and plazas that were really decorated. People everywhere, especially once we left the chi chi old section (quite beautiful, but obviously gentrified and forcing those who used to live there into the outer rings — probably closer to the mercado and areas like that). Once we crossed Avenida de Venezuela streets were really packed, music everywhere, food vendors, people strolling, sort of a carnival feeling. Traffic was horrendous so we were glad we decided to walk; would have been sitting in a taxi forever… but we also suffered walking along all the fumes from the idling cars and buses.. Along the way we were walking parallel to two “party buses” — wide vehicles that groups appear to rent… and there’s music on these buses, people were dancing… not sure if they go to a destination or just party on the bus..  Eventually we reached a bridge that we walked across.. it got us over some kind of lagoon.. The restaurant was on the water. When you arrive (before you climb the stairs up to the restaurant which is literally sitting on the water) they “announce you with a bell.

It’s a pretty upscale place — located right on the water in a 17th century fort. Charming… and just as we sat down and ordered cocktails (Mike is now into Lychee Martinis; I’m sticking with Mojitos), a “party boat” docked… we think it was an engagement party .. or maybe wedding rehearsal dinner. Anyway the guest were dancing and singing on the boat.. and then it docked right in front of us.. and the whole group began their dinner at the restaurant.

For the foodies… Tuna Tataki (tartare with tamarind I think), and a specialty of the house called “jaiba”.. which had crab and corn and in the middle was a very tiny and thin empanada. … for main courses we had cazuela (fish stew) and something that translated to “almond crunchy shrimp”… Both were quite good… cazuela especially… No dessert.. We are eating way too much. But we didn’t walk back.. too tired; took taxi.. and then packed to leave in the morning.. for Medellin.

A few interesting observations… Apparently the hotel decided to paint various hallways (didn’t really need it, but guess they wanted it fresh for the holidays?).. so they have about 10 guys painting one wall… gets done pretty fast; each does a strip about 8’wide… so that’s about 80′ covered in literally minutes..

By morning, Mike had some stomach issues… either too much ceviche (it’s been great but we’ve had it at every meal!) or maybe too many of those lychee martinis. I’m OK… so he slept in and had a very light breakfast..I did some work..  and then we headed to the airport.

6:30 pm – Medellin

Arrived in Medellin at about 3:30, and given Mike’s condition decided to take a taxi to the hotel (the drive from the airport to the hotel which is in the city takes about 45 minutes or maybe more… and the taxi was zipping along at about 75 mph (or so it seemed) up and down unbelievably curvy roads.. sort of like driving to Mendocino on Hwy 1… and the total cost was less than $20… 

Got to the Hotel (Park 10) which is quite nice, but definitely not in the neighborhoods we are accustomed to staying in (sort of like being in the Zona Rosa in Mexico City)… Finding hotels in the heart of the city, the old sections, where lower income people live and where there is a lot of history is apparently quite difficult. We have the same problem in Bogota — where we relied on two friends who live in Bogota to pick the hotel. Anyway, it’s just that it will be a long walk (or metro ride) to the areas we hope to explore (along the lines of the Mercado Bazurto)…

So, we arrived at the hotel after climbing and descending about 2,500 ft. The ride (in spite of the speed) was pretty wonderful with amazingly lush greens and flower markets all around and spectacular views into the valley where Medellin (population 3 million) sits. The actual city of 3 million has soaring towers in the center of this really deep valley. They call Medellin the City of Eternal Spring… 

We checked in and the front desk said something in Spanish about “decorations” in the room… First I thought that maybe the prior guest wanted some Xmas decorations and they were still hanging… then I thought he said the decorations were for us because we were on a “plan”… I remembered vaguely that when I made the reservations, we couldn’t get all three nights in the same room unless we got a “package”.. I figured this meant “con desayuno”/ with breakfast.. Didn’t read the details.. 

Our room is bedecked with rose petals making hearts.. and a dozen roses on the bed.. rose petals in the tub… champagne and truffles. I suppose we got the honeymoon package. Too bad I’m with a guy who is sick and already sound asleep.. I think they must think we are a bit crazy… We ordered some bland soup… and then asked a lot of questions about how to get to the Candelaria… the old section and also to the barrios high above the city.. which they warned against going to… Naturally we will go tomorrow…. Hopefully Mike will be better.. 

We also have a tradition on these many visits to developing nations to go to Xmas Eve Mass… very interesting insight into the culture of the country. So we asked what time the Mass would be at the cathedral/basilica (which is in the old downtown), but they told us the hours for a church close to the hotel in this upscale neighborhood… We stressed we wanted to go to the Basilica… so they finally got the information.. Now, we are on a hunt to find a decent restaurant to eat at after the mass. Naturally the reception desk at the hotel says there aren’t any restaurants there and we need to come back up to this area.

In any case, our first look at Medellin — seen from the taxi — reveals it to be a pretty exquisite city… combination of old and new… dense urban structures and that valley wall that climbs up and up to a spectacular national park..

OK.. need to take advantage of the fact that Mike is sleeping.. I can get a lot of work done.. and then won’t feel guilty tomorrow..

All the best –

Fern